REI Community
Cactus Rose Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aliens Ate My Penis S 
Alligator Ed S 
Arizona Rising S 
Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 
Back in Black S 
Bald Headed Neocons S 
Barbecueing Traditions S 
Cactus Rose S 
Child's Play S 
Crack to Black S 
E=mc2 S 
Handsome Alien S 
Hell Raiser S 
Hell Razors S 
How Ed Lost His Mind S 
John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 
Little Boys With Power Toys S 
Maiden's Milk S 
Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 
Munchkins on Parade S 
Needle Lies, The S 
Omen, The S 
Paper Bondage S 
Pigs in Bondage S 
Raising Arizona S 
Skinheads Big Night Out S 
Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones... T 
Sweat Hog S 
Take The Skinheads Bowling S 
Tower of Beta, The S 
Unknown S 
Vapor Trails S 
Welcome To The Machine S,TR 
Whisper of Immortality S 
Unsorted Routes:

Barbecueing Traditions 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Sep 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Nearing the final singe-in-the-tail move. Photo b...


This is an excellent and sequential route. It features steep crimpin' and sharp pocket pullin' (big surprise). The technical crux is around the third clip, crimping on a gnarly, slippery sidepull. It is somewhat reachy. It eases off a little bit after that, with a shake out rest followed by another sting-in-the-tail set of thin balance moves getting to the intimidating last clip (I used a looong sling for this one). Finish with jugs to the anchors.

The guidebook calls this 12a/b, but I would lean more on the "b" side, IMO. For crude comparison sake, I thought this route was harder than Freeform, Phase Dance, Helter Skelter, or Sleight of Hand (in Ten Sleep). About the same or harder than Little Mecca or Happiness in Slavery (Ten Sleep).


This is the route just right of Cactus Rose, and third route right of the 5.9 crack that is between Bachar... and E=mc2.


Half a dozen bolts or so. A long draw is helpful on the last clip. I stick clipped the first one.

Comments on Barbecueing Traditions Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zane Dordai
Jan 26, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Semi-spoiler alert! After the big jug rest at the 5th bolt, I traversed out right into a small dihedral and then back left over the arete. One also has the potential for a huge, albeit totally safe, fall if they blow the last move before that 6th clip. I saw pretty much no holds going straight up through the bolt line, so traversing seemed most logical and made the route very diverse and interesting, but is this what is traditionally done? One of the best at Shelf that I've tried....
By Darryl Roth
Jan 27, 2014

Yes, there was traversing done on the FA. Bolts in a straight line weren't intended to deceive but to be best for rope management with reasonable clips where they are. The route isn't a give-away with the subtle sequences and sparse holds. Sounds like you were doing what I did, Zane.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About