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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tod Anderson and Richard Wright, 8/95
Page Views: 1,850
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 5, 2001

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Ken Leiden making the crux move.

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  • Description 

    It sounds strange, but this .12b is actually one of the better warm-ups on Easter Rock. The route lies just to the left of the arete at the bottom end of the cliff (just around the corner from 'Empire of the Fenceless'). The climbing is relatively easy (5.10 or so) up to a sit-down rest, and then a 2 move 5.12- crux a little before the anchors. A fun, solid, well protected route.


    9 bolts, and something for the 2 bolt anchor.

    Photos of Barbarians Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ken Leiden clipping the bolt just before the crux.
    Ken Leiden clipping the bolt just before the crux.

    Comments on Barbarians Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    This route is a terrible warmup. It took me longer to do this than the "5.13s" here.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jun 19, 2001
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    How do you think we get the ropes up there, anyway?
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 24, 2002

    This indeed is a fantastic 5.10 warm-up right until you reach the Butt Smackin' Good Crux with Bran and wish you wore your Oops I Crapped My Pants diaper under your Prana climbing pants.
    By Dan Green
    Jul 3, 2002

    The moves up to the crux on this route are a great warm-up. HUGE holds up a great dihedral with some mellow stemming. The crux is way harder than the rest of the route. You will get to a small sidepull edge for your hand on the other side of the arret, and you will stuff your left foot into a slot. Drop your left knee and torque your foot hard. It will strongly seat your left foot and bring your left hip up and in so you can make a slow reach for an edge on a small, sloping shelf. A cool bouldering problem on a fun route. Loved it!
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 18, 2002

    Unlike the previous reader, I did not execute as a slow reach. Beta was the same until I stuck the left foot in the slot. I then slapped high left to the first bomber sloper, moved my left foot up to the next pimpy edge, slapped the arete higher and then chucked high for the right handed, sloper gaston.... One more heave and the "jug" was then attained. Super cool!
    By Ryan Keenan
    Aug 30, 2002

    Easy, guys! Let's leave a little crux beta to the imagination!
    By Tzilla Rapdrilla
    Jul 31, 2008

    FA - August, 1995.

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