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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eric Anderson - 2005
Page Views: 11,005
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 6, 2009  with updates from Douglas97

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (187)
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A climber working up Banshee. May 2013.


Anchor your belayer and step out over the void, follow bolts up and right to a huge hueco. Sit down and ponder the meaning of life. Exit the hueco and make difficult moves up and right to a second hueco (Abiyoyo 5.12b heads up and left from the first hueco). Sit down and ponder why we climb. Exit the hueco and follow jugs to the anchor.


Starts at the far right end of the wall as the ledge that all the routes star from peters out to nothing, find an achor bolt to start.


Bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos of Banshee Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the second hueco and into the steep, big jug...
Above the second hueco and into the steep, big jug...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peek-a-boo!
Rock Climbing Photo: Banshee
Rock Climbing Photo: Banshee

Comments on Banshee Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

For what its worth, i didn't think getting to the second hueco was the crux. Not that it was easy, mind you.
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Jul 11, 2012

One of the best pitches I've ever done for sure. A super long exposed adventure on killer clean rock. The upper headwall above the second hueco was relaxed 5.10 and very fun. Just try not to get too caught up enjoying the view!
By Alex Lahr
Mar 21, 2013

The bouldery moves up an into the 1st hueco felt a little harder than the bit leading into the second. Just my opinion.
By David Raines
Jul 3, 2013

Awesome! super awesome!

Fun, exposed, solid 5.11 with good opportunities to rest.

Bring a stick clip - the route begins by traversing off the edge of a small cliff. There are a pair of bolts for the belayer to anchor into, but you'd still want to stick clip the 1st bolt to avoid a factor-2 fall.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Mar 22, 2015

I can hear my heartbeat in here
By Nick Grounds
Dec 4, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Easily my favorite route in the Red. Try not to have too much fun on the most satisfying jug haul to the top.
By Sean H
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 18, 2017

Fantastic climb.

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