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Banshee Wall
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My Ikran T 
67 S 
Aibell S 
Ban Cheese Pillar T 
Banshee Holiday T 
Banshee Port Wing T 
Banshee Starboard Wing T 
Happy House S 
Into the Light. T 
Jigsaw Feeling. S 
Keener, The S 
Last but not least S 
Longest Day, The T 
Mopping Up Banshee Gravy S 
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One Bolt Wonder T 
Rain Stopped Play. T 
Siouxsie Sioux S 
Solstice S 
Son of a Banshee S,TR 
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Universal Conflicts  T 

Banshee Holiday 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: R. Suggett (solo) days after the cleaning, anchor setting and working out the moves on a fixed line) & Holly Hansen (In very cold and windy conditions
New Route: Yes
Season: May through Oct.
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Sep 20, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Banshee Holiday Topo

Description 

Unlike most Jungle lines, not at the start or the end, but dead center and the crux will most certainly work you. Once you get into the .75 finger lock, the grind will go straight forwardly. It is that mid-way transition that will make you wish for another holiday.

Location 

Between Aibell and My Ikran and up on a hump that is a bit loose.

Protection 

Small cams and nuts, BD .75 X 4, #2 & #3 x 1 as well as gear for the two bolt anchor that has a chain and a quick link.


Photos of Banshee Holiday Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Very tough in the mid section
Very tough in the mid section

Comments on Banshee Holiday Add Comment
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By Roy Suggett
Sep 22, 2016

So...I do not know what to say. I try to stay out of the main stream and live day to to day, off the grid, while trying to find a good deed to do, and make the planet better. Which means, I have NO clue what to call what I did in terms of modern technical climbing jargon. Saw the line, knew it would be sweet, and as usual, under estimated it. Ran in to a 3rd wheel who graciously submitted to cold and wind to set this beast up. Then had to bail due to the cold. It later warmed up and I knew I only had a couple of weeks before the weather and my enthusiasm turned cold. So I set a fixed line anchored from the top and bottom with a directional in the middle. Aware that a mistake would leave me alone and frozen in my error, I did all that I knew to mitigate the possible issues. Using what I had (old brain and very old gear) I set a Gibbs to a chest harness and the original first generation Jumar to my regular climbing harness. Perhaps 40+ attempts over too many days, my muscle memory (not my brain memory) made the two moves needed and I pulled the thing clean (all the while sliding the old gear up the fixed line as I progressed). So, what do you call that? NOT an FA! Anyone wanting a REAL FA on this needs only to submit to the finger joint torture and mental fatigue this line demands, and it's yours (next season)!

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