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Banana Peel 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Dan Tate, Barry Hagen, July 1965
Page Views: 11,808
Submitted By: Kurt Withers on Mar 21, 2007  with updates from Marielle Breneman

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (112)
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Undulating granite on Banana Peel's 3rd pitch. The...

Description 

P1+2+3: The start is as for Diedre or to the right up a couple bolts. Climb the slab and then move right along the narrow ledge. Sling tree on the way by. Belay here or sling the tree and stem up onto the slab right in front of you to a tree belay on the left.

P4: Head up the slab aiming for a right facing corner past a bolt. Look for good holds above your head and have at it (crux 5.7). Ramble left up a finger crack traverse and belay at a tree.

P5: Continue up the route following the obvious line of water scoops to a little alcove and a gear belay.

P6: Surmount the slab - crux 5.7 a little freaky but super fun! Continue right along a small ripple upwards to a huge hole then you have 2 options.

  • Option 1 Place a cam high on the flake to create a semi toprope for the second coming across the slab and belay from a tree island below.

  • Option 2 continue up a corner to a huge flake and to a tree belay up and left. (If your second is confident then go for option 2 you eliminate a belay)

P7: Ramble up the water scoops (5.easy) and either a gear belay at the overlap just below a big block or do a little simul-climbing so that you can belay from behind the big block.

P8: Ramble up the final easy slab (4th class) to the tree belay at the finish. This route is 2 moderate moves then jug haul flake fest in between. Super fun though a little run out in spots.

Protection 

Standard rack to 2", extra long slings


Photos of Banana Peel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Continuing on the foot ledge on the second pitch o...
Continuing on the foot ledge on the second pitch o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Up high on Banana Peel.
Up high on Banana Peel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tree stem start to third pitch of Banana Peel
Tree stem start to third pitch of Banana Peel
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Banana Peel
First pitch of Banana Peel
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Banana Peel looking up,  note the birch t...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Banana Peel looking up, note the birch t...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the belay looking at the crux 3rd pitch, the li...
BETA PHOTO: At the belay looking at the crux 3rd pitch, the li...

Comments on Banana Peel Add Comment
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By Seth Webster
Aug 28, 2015

For the unprotected third pitch, I found it best to stem off the birch tree. You could stem off the other trees, but the slab is a bit harder there.
By DanS
Mar 31, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Crazy fun route! I'd say definitely more than 'just a bit' runout, you could be looking at some pretty heroic falls in certain spots (pitch 4, while on easy slab, is very runout to the one and only bolt on the whole route). Don't bring anything bigger than a BD #2, and utilize runners for the longer pitches (4 and 6 i believe). Get on it!
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Apr 21, 2016

Some clarification because if there is not fresh chalk on the climb the easiest way could be a bit confusing to find:
Pitch 4: aim up and left on unprotected slab for the bolt that is BEFORE the corner. The finger crack traverse left above the corner has some glacial polish that is very slick for the feet (hence the climb's name?)
Pitch 5: follow easy crack up and left to alcove
Pitch 6: climb R out of alcove and continue R and up on unprotected slab (5.7) to a 3" hole (perhaps a large tricam here? My #3 Camelot was rattling!) then R to near horizontal crack.
Great climb especially if combined with Rambles. If so, walk 100 feet left on good ledge with trees above the Rambles finish. Friction climb up the whitish part of the slab (unprotected 5.3) to arching crack that becomes the long horizontal crack.
By David Runneals
Jun 11, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

A great climb that was relatively easy. I would have to say it was on the edge between a 5.6 & 5.7. The first part on the slab was really interesting with no hand holds. First time I've ever had to really trust my shoes. This did boost my confidence when bouldering and climbing now in my gym on slab walls.

Also found some booty near the route or on the right side that looked relatively new. Attempted retrieval, but it was jammed in there pretty well.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 17, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

This is a decent climb that is probably not really a good idea for beginning trad leaders- while the hardest couple of moves are well protected, there is a fair amount of substantial run-outs on 5.5/5.6 terrain.

A few thoughts on the route/rack.

Rack: A single set of cams from green alien to #2 camalot is more than enough. Add a handful of medium stoppers (4 or so), 8 or 10 slings, and you'll be pretty happy.

Pitch 1: Probably start a bit right of Diedre, even though its a bit tougher. If you start up Diedre, a #4 camalot would be nice to protect your second if they are a newish climber- any slip between Diedre and the first set of trees would be a ground fall for the second. 5.5, 150' (only 30' of elevation gain).

Pitch 2: Pretty cruiser walking for a good ways to an obvious stand of trees that let you gain the slab above (we used the sole birch tree). Belay here, or scramble up the slab (p3 in the book). 5.4, 100' Not much gear, I put a #2 in on the weird down-walk.

Pitch 3: Stem off the birch tree and climb the short slab to the trees above, 5.5 slab, 30' no pro at all.

Pitch 4: Crux pitch- head up the easy runout slab (5.5) for 30' to a bolt and do two 5.7 moves before gaining the corner. Follow the cracks up and left to some trees. 5.7, 130'.

Pitch 5: Head up and left to the water runnel and follow this to a nice alcove above some trees. 5.4, 60'.

Pitch 6: Solo up and right on the slab (5.6) for 50' to a hole, then up and right again to the obvious flake system and finally some gear. Follow this up and right until it fades, then head up and left to some trees and belay. 5.6X, 120'

Pitch 7: Head up past two flakes to the water runnels, and then follow this to a stance and belay. 5.4 PG13, 100'

Pitch 8: Head up the flake and other features to the top. 5.4, 170'.

If you're solid on 5.9 or stronger, I'd recommend simul-climbing the first three pitches, then doing Pitch 4 by itself, then link 5&6 and 7&8 with a bit of simul-climbing.

If you're new- this might not be the best choice of a route. There is alot of soloing on this route, and much of it is traversing, making it dicey for both the leader and follower. While the hardest moves are well protected, but everything below 5.7 has spots where you are soloing.

IMHO, this route does not belong in the Squamish Top 100- I definitely wouldn't repeat it.
By Dru
Sep 7, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It's relatively easy to climb a variant, basically unprotected p2 which slab climbs up to the higher fault, instead of continuing to traverse the lower fault to the birch tree. This avoids the easiest shuffling on route. From tree belay, walk right 20 feet to join into p3 above the stem-off-the-birch tree move.

Also, a great link-up is to climb straight up from the gear belay at the top of p5 of Banana Peel and join into the upper three pitches of Sparrow. Gives a more consistent 5.8 finish.

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