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Band Camp S 
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Madam Butterfly S 
Sweeping Sickness.  S 
Who's Your Daddy?  S 

Band Camp 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Todd Goss
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: G Halsne on Nov 13, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Low slope starting at the right of the stone saddle leads to a tiny finger sized crack for first section. You don't really climb that crack but it helps identify the route. Seemed easier than suggested guide book 10d, perhaps the moves to the shared anchors with Madame Butterfly and Sweeping Sickness are the harder moves?

Location 

Right of Madame Butterfly in the Alcove area. This climb starts at climbers RIGHT of the small tree/bush in the saddle of the gully. Sort of the rounded arete.

Protection 

10 bolts to shared anchors with the Madame Butterfly and Sweeping Sickness. The 2015 anchors are 3 bolts, 2 of which have rap rings.

Description 

Low slope satrting at the stone saddle leads to a tiny finger sized crack for first section. You don't really climb that crack but it helps identify the route. Seemed easier than 10d, perhaps the moves to the shared anchors with Madame Butterfly and Sweeping Sickness are the harder moves?

Location 

Right of Madame Butterfly in the Alcove area. This climb starts at climbers RIGHT of the small tree/bush in the saddle of the gully. Sort of the rounded arete.

Protection 

10 bolts to shared anchors with the Madame Butterfly and Sweeping Sickness. The 2015 anchors are 3 bolts, 2 of which have rap rings.


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By Alec Luther
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 24, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.7-5.9 moves for 90% of the climb up to a 5.10a crux finish. Easy introduction to a lead in the 10 range. Nice view at the top. Solid blue/gray rock. Good climb

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