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South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Agony Til Dawn T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Conn's West Corner Start T 
Conn's West Direct  T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,860
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Oct 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (105)
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BETA PHOTO: Major Seneca features to aid in locating routes


Climb a blocky, right facing set of flakes with an exciting finish to a ledge. The flakes form an arc, hence the route name. There are typically some loose flakes or blocks on this route, so be cautious.

From Banana, you can climb Debbie and gain the Gunsight Notch, or angle left, then right up some ledge systems on easy ground to the Gunsight Notch.


Begin directly below the Gunsight Notch on the West Face of the South Peak. Take the trail used for Old Man's Route and head up to the wall from there.


Standard Seneca rack

Photos of Banana Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From the ground.
BETA PHOTO: From the ground.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon pulling on his Banana.
Jon pulling on his Banana.
Rock Climbing Photo: Banana
Rock Climbing Photo: Bananas. Cool, if only it was longer.
Bananas. Cool, if only it was longer.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Brainard leads Banana
Matt Brainard leads Banana

Comments on Banana Add Comment
Show which comments
By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Apr 19, 2009

Definitely watch the loose rock. As of April '09, there was a large (10 lbs?) block loose about 3/4 of the way up. Would have made a great hold...
By climbinbob
Sep 6, 2012

I'm always afraid that the entire route is going to fall away if someone takes a leader fall in the top 3rd of the route. If you feel sketched at the top, use the tree-it's not a competition!!
By Cody Bradford
From: Boone, NC
Nov 13, 2012

Agree with the above comment. Top half of this climb is a no fall zone. That being said, you could be written in the next guide as the one who brought Banana down. Seriously, don't fall.
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Nov 14, 2012

Banana has some neat moves and offers the new Seneca leader steep heads up climbing! The crux is probably more like a 5.7 or 8 and is the obvious section up high before the top out. I also agree with the above comments; DO NOT fall on this route or it may come with you!
By Andrew G
From: Silver Spring, MD
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Shouldn't the flakes be described as right-facing? Fun route, regardless, and tougher than it looks.

And the loose blocks on the upper part of the route are still there.
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 4, 2014

@Andrew G - thanks for the feedback, I changed the description to "right facing". Must dyslexic be I. If I recall, the loose flakes were still pretty solidly wedged in the crack system so they might be there for quite some time. I think they are OK as long as you aren't counting on using pro behind them.
By Stephenmontgomery
From: Maryland
Feb 6, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Not technically hard, but dear god everyone is right about it feeling that it could fall off.

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