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Banana Splits 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA late 1950s 5.6 A3 Harry Davis & J. Mack Adams, FFA Mark Motes & Karl Kiser, spring 1980
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 190
Submitted By: cuclimbing on Mar 25, 2008  with updates from Karl Kiser

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: bolts and crux label


You can access the top rope anchors from Rotten Reality or you can free climb a 4th class Lichen face around the north corner and descend a shaky 15 feet to the crack. The bolts and hangers are old and rusty, I use them but don't trust them....Bad combo. I would back it up with some pro. Hopefully, this summer I can get some good bolts in for everyone. There is quite a bit of rope drag from the top rope, especially when you get close to the overhang. starting the route and the overhang are the 2 crux in the climb. with a 60m rope the climber and belayer have to get a boost to be roped in. Awesome route with some nice hand and finger jams. Get's mellow towards the end, nice way to in the climb and a fun free rappel back down!


West of Rotten Reality in an area my brother and I have dubbed "The Basin". You can't miss this huge split up the rock. You can access it from the north trail, or bushwack a bit from the southern la cueva trail under a huge boulder. Awesome place to climb in summer, nice and cool.


2 old bolts are at the top of the route. about 20ft below, right above the overhand, is another old bolt. A good place to set an aider. right below the overhang above "the step" is a new bolt. On the step is an old piton. about 20-30 ft up is a jammed tri-cam, an old piton used to be right by it but i broke it in a fall. a good set of cams can easily do the trick. on the overhang, i could barely fit in a 0 cam and i wouldnt trust the rock in a fall.

Photos of Banana Splits Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: you can see the 2 anchor points and the little fun...
you can see the 2 anchor points and the little fun...
Rock Climbing Photo: working the crack, right below the tri-cam. rope d...
working the crack, right below the tri-cam. rope d...
Rock Climbing Photo: On/above "the step" (not official name, ...
On/above "the step" (not official name, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the base of the climb... awesome mysteri...
BETA PHOTO: View from the base of the climb... awesome mysteri...

Comments on Banana Splits Add Comment
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By Karl Kiser
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb had two anchors in the old days. One on the ledge below the wide crack and one at the top. The bolts are more than 30 years old and should be replaced. We called this 5.9 in the old days (perhaps better rated day 10 now). The protection is reasonable.
By cuclimbing
From: Las Cruces
Apr 6, 2008

Trad is pretty safe. Like you said, those hangers are old. If the consensus is 5.9, I'll change it. Happy climbing!
By Matt Baker
From: Portland, OR
Dec 27, 2011

Climbed this climb today. Was pretty fun, rock quality was not great but to be expected at La Cueva. I would not trust those anchor bolts at all, they are old 1/4 inchers and someone has driven in a nail (back-up?) into the rock next to them. I was able to set up a good anchor in a crack way back.
By Jorge Achata
From: Lima, Peru
Jul 21, 2013

Did this route with Steve Roach yesterday, it was a lot of fun. Steve led it into the offwidth and chimney his way up out to the anchors. The moves into the crack can be protected with a couple large cams (#5-6), though large hexes or big bros would fair better. There's a placement for a medium stopper (#6?) inside the crack too, about half way up. We think this variation is more of a 5.10b.

The anchors are still the original 1/4 inch spinners, we left slings and a fixed stopper to back them up. The bolts need to be replaced, so don't remove the stopper.
By Jorge Achata
From: Lima, Peru
Oct 21, 2013

We have two brand new bolts for anchors on this route now. Thanks Steve!
By Karl Kiser
Jun 12, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

FFA Mark Motes & Karl Kiser, spring 1980.

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