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Banana Split Dome
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Banana Split 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 341
Submitted By: kBobby Hanson on Jun 18, 2012

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Description 

Pitch 1: Pull through the thin cracks in the prow at the base of the wall (5.8). Follow incipient cracks (including some horizontals) up the slabby face to a 2-bolt anchor (old SMC hangers).

Pitch 2: Head up the obvious crack. (Beware poison ivy at the base.) Where the crack splits (both cracks go right, but one is almost horizontal), follow the more vertical crack up to the top. The first crux is right where the crack splits; the second crux is still to come. Both are about 5.8. There is a 3-bolt anchor at the top.

Variation: Follow the horizontal crack at the split. (5.6) Lots of rope drag!

Location 

Begin at the base of a small prow with a thin crack.

Rappel the route with two ropes or a 70m. Bring webbing for the anchors.

The first rappel is at least 35m.

Protection 

Standard Rack. Bolted anchors (with old bolts) that can be backed up with pro.


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By Kevin Driscoll
Jun 16, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The first pitch has now been bolted for easier access to the main crack on pitch 2. New anchors have been installed on both pitch 1 & 2. Poison Ivy treated with roundup so hopefully will be eradicated. It's a classic fun trad line. Have an extra #3 or #4 for the lower section. Somewhat runout to the chains but just 5.5 slab there.
There is now a 3rd pitch option if you follow the ledge out to the right there is a 40ft slab with a 10a crack on the right side called "Camp Sid". Climb the slab to the horizontal and traverse to the arete. Couple of thin moves to a beautiful layback finish. 1ea #2 and 2ea #1 cams will do the job with bolted anchor and chains. Rapel the sport routes (2 rapels) using 70m rope from this ledge. The route is also bolted for sport option if desired. The gear placements are right next to the bolts so it climbs about the same either way.
By Pete Spri
Oct 15, 2016

You should be embarrassed that you bolted a classic line. Good grief, talk about lack of respect.
By Kevin Driscoll
Aug 9, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

This is a classic line on Pitch 2, which hasn't been touched other than to add new anchor chains. The first pitch is a throw away to reach the good section and had minimal options for protection. Now more people can access the best climbing quickly and safely, or choose to do it the old school way if desired. I might also mentioned that no one had likely climbed this route in over a decade due to the 40 feet of impenetrable brush blocking the wall. Thanks to the efforts of the new owner and many others the climbing community can once again enjoy this route.

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