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Banana Peel 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
Page Views: 9,979
Submitted By: Kurt Withers on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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Undulating granite on Banana Peel's 3rd pitch. The...


The start is as for Diedre. Up the slab to the crack that moves right. VERY Easy all the way across the slab. Sling tree on the way by. Simulclimb the first 2 pitches (5.2 at the most!) till you get to a dirty ledge with a tree. Belay here or sling the tree and Head up the slab right in front of you to a tree belay on the left. (SHORT!! Pitch you can even simul climb this part if you wanted cause there is no pro on the slab so it doesn't really matter if you have a belay).

Head up the slab aiming for a right facing corner past a bolt look for good holds above your head and have at it (Crux 5.7). Ramble left up a finger crack traverse and belay at a tree. Continue up the route following the obvious line of water scoops to a little alcove and a gear belay.

Surmount the slab (crux 5.7 a little freaky but super fun!!) along a small ripple upwards to a huge hole then you have 2 options.

  • Option 1 Place a cam high on the flake to create a semi toprope for the second coming across the slab and belay from a tree island below.

  • Option 2 continue up a corner to a huge flake and to a tree belay up and left. (If your second is confident then go for option 2 you eliminate a belay)

Ramble up the water scoops (5.easy) and either a gear belay at the overlap just below a big block or do a little simul climbing so that you can belay from behind the big block and ramble up the final easy slab (4th class) to the tree belay at the finish. This route is 2 moderate moves then jug haul flake fest in between. Super fun though a little run out in spots.

Photos of Banana Peel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Up high on Banana Peel.
Up high on Banana Peel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tree stem start to third pitch of Banana Peel
Tree stem start to third pitch of Banana Peel
Rock Climbing Photo: Continuing on the foot ledge on the second pitch o...
Continuing on the foot ledge on the second pitch o...
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Banana Peel
First pitch of Banana Peel
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Banana Peel looking up,  note the birch t...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Banana Peel looking up, note the birch t...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the belay looking at the crux 3rd pitch, the li...
BETA PHOTO: At the belay looking at the crux 3rd pitch, the li...

Comments on Banana Peel Add Comment
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 12, 2015

FA: Dan Tate, Barry Hagen, July 1965
By Seth Webster
Aug 28, 2015

For the unprotected third pitch, I found it best to stem off the birch tree. You could stem off the other trees, but the slab is a bit harder there.
By Jason Curtis
Jan 9, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The correct spelling of the route name is "Banana Peel".
By DanS
Mar 31, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Crazy fun route! I'd say definitely more than 'just a bit' runout, you could be looking at some pretty heroic falls in certain spots (pitch 4, while on easy slab, is very runout to the one and only bolt on the whole route). Don't bring anything bigger than a BD #2, and utilize runners for the longer pitches (4 and 6 i believe). Get on it!
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Apr 21, 2016

Some clarification because if there is not fresh chalk on the climb the easiest way could be a bit confusing to find:
Pitch 4: aim up and left on unprotected slab for the bolt that is BEFORE the corner. The finger crack traverse left above the corner has some glacial polish that is very slick for the feet (hence the climb's name?)
Pitch 5: follow easy crack up and left to alcove
Pitch 6: climb R out of alcove and continue R and up on unprotected slab (5.7) to a 3" hole (perhaps a large tricam here? My #3 Camelot was rattling!) then R to near horizontal crack.
Great climb especially if combined with Rambles. If so, walk 100 feet left on good ledge with trees above the Rambles finish. Friction climb up the whitish part of the slab (unprotected 5.3) to arching crack that becomes the long horizontal crack.
By David Runneals
Jun 11, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

A great climb that was relatively easy. I would have to say it was on the edge between a 5.6 & 5.7. The first part on the slab was really interesting with no hand holds. First time I've ever had to really trust my shoes. This did boost my confidence when bouldering and climbing now in my gym on slab walls.

Also found some booty near the route or on the right side that looked relatively new. Attempted retrieval, but it was jammed in there pretty well.

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