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Banana Frita T 
Objetivo Luna T 

Banana Frita 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a C1 [details]
FA: Ronaldo Franzen y Simone Rodriguez
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: Emmett Lyman on Jan 11, 2017

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Description 

We bailed just below the top of P1 when the gear ran out turning the huge flake up to the belay ledge. Very dirty climbing led to piss poor gear and insecure runout climbing that we just weren't willing to do for a climb like this. I came up and tried out the narrow chimney as an alternate finish to the pitch, but my partner had concocted a makeshift anchor on pretty poor gear and I didn't want to risk blowing it and killing us both for the glory of a bad climb. Ended up lasso-ing a few chockstones with bail tat and *gently* rapped back to the base.

I recommend sticking to the super classic Objetivo Luna or the somewhat cleaner Las Tretas del Yoga instead of climbing this unless you want spicy, ugly adventure.

Location 

Starts up a fairly obvious corner crack system midway between the huge left facing Las Tretas del Yoga corner (to the right) and the big arete where Objetivo Luna begins (to the left).

3 pitches link up with Las Tretas - 4 more to the awesome looking summit block.

Protection 

Presumably a standard rack, which we found to be ~doubles to 3 and a single 4 in Frey. Bring bail gear.


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By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jan 11, 2017

Ohh man, we really should have all hopped on Objetivo Luna. Hopefully this spares someone else some misery though.

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