|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Scott Ayers, Matt Ciancio, Aug 2001|
|Submitted By:||Euan Cameron on Jul 8, 2007|
|Comments on Balvenie||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Euan Cameron
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jul 8, 2007
|Kinda an oddity, since you'll need to bring your trad gear to this sport crag. If you can be bothered to carry the gear the climb is worth it.|
By C Miller
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
|Poorly bolted at the start as you traverse far right to an arete (where the holds are) and then cut back left - this could have been done with just one bolt. There's lots of good stemming in the right-facing corner higher, but the gear is a bit scarce for a short section above the ledge. Overall a decent route to warm-up for the more difficult ones nearby.|
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 5, 2016
Did this climb today - super fun and techy dihedral. I disagree with CMiller (above) in that I thought the initial sequence was bolted well.
I also thought it was way better than the one star everyone heretofore has given it.
The guidebook says "gear to 2 inches" - that's not right by my measure.
The largest piece I used was a .5" - I would suggest doubles on small TCU's, as well as a larger stopper or two.
I would agree with the PG-13 rating off the ledge - if you are taller, a better #0 TCU option lies above my reach from the solid stance.