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Pit Fiend Rock
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Balrog T 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013  with updates from Taggart Cole

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Balrog, begin inside the "cave" and go u...

Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>


Balrog is an awkward, dirty route. It's fun, a bit intense, and then in hindsight will likely feel soft for the grade. It's more about balance than pump.


The route is located inside the wide chimney on the left side of Pit Fiend Rock. You scramble for a few feet up to a roof, and then follow the crack on the right up and out, around the roof on the right to a ledge. then you climb up the dirty mountain to a spot suitable for belaying.


The route will take hexes, nuts and cams. Once you pull past the roof to the ledge, you'll probably want to sling some trees on your way up to a belay spot. There's a clutch spot for #4 cam in the crack. Given the awkward nature of the climb, rope drag will probably be bad.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Balrog, begin inside the "cave."
Balrog, begin inside the "cave."

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