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Fruita Canyon
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Balanced Rock T 
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Ballerina (right of Taper) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Aug 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Same start as Taper, but stay right, in the dihedral. Easy climbing gains a good ledge, then awkward stems with the curving offwidth and right facing dihedral gain the anchors. More difficult for shorter people.

Location 

Shares anchors with Taper. Before Special Verdict by 100 or so yards.

Protection 

Thin seams and offwidth make pro difficult. Can be toproped from Taper. Micro-stoppers and ballnutz (2 sets) provide adequate protection. A #5 Camalot can be placed in the curved offwidth just below the crux. Double anchor with old slings and double rap ring power point.


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