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Ball Doctor SDS 

Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
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Page Views: 384
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Nov 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

The sit start to Ball Doctor. Why not add more moves to a problem that most people can't figure out? Just sit down, smear both feet near the tiny dihedral, wiggle your fingertips into a sidepull crack, grab anything with your left hand and pull off the ground. Depending on the phase of the moon, you should be able to grab the good hold out left, adjust a foot, and then bump your right hand up to the good hold for the stand start. Smear a left foot, sit on it, deadpoint into the backwards pinch, and you're ready to do the rest of the problem.

Location 

On the Hero Block, look left of the tree. Downclimb easier terrain if you manage a send.

Protection 

Pads, spotter would be good


Comments on Ball Doctor SDS Add Comment
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By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Nov 5, 2012

This problem can go to h#!! ... GAH!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 5, 2012

many (like me) would say the same about boulder x but you walked right up that... consider you're self lucky ;)
By Gavin Galloway
Apr 19, 2017

Tried the sit when I sent the stand last year and couldn't even get off the ground. On my way out yesterday I decided to try it, and it turned out to be a lot of fun! footage @1:05
By losbill
Apr 19, 2017

Hey Gavin thanks for sharing your videos of bouldering at Pawtuckaway. Haven't been up there in years. Gives me some motivation to get the pad in the car and here up there.

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