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Careno Crag
Routes Sorted
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A Swingin' Affair T 
An Exotic Affair T 
Bale/Kramar route T,S 
Careno Corners T 
Cool Struttin' S 
Corino Corner S 
Existential Exit T 
Exotic Dancer T 
Finders Keepers S 
Free Floyd T 
Heave Ho T,S 
Just a Gigolo T 
Killer B's S 
Left Wing T 
Nubbin Grubbin' S 
Passing Lane T 
Pocketmeister S 
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Regular Route T 
Roger's Tower T 
Super Freaky T 
Wraptor S 

Bale/Kramar route 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar, 1995
Page Views: 2,222
Submitted By: geoff georges on Oct 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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the classic 3rd pitch

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1, the crux is getting off the ground. There used to be a flake on the left that fell off making the start rather stiff. You can belay at the bolted anchor 40' up or continue up mossy gully to leftward traverse to the anchors at the base of the 2nd pitch( guide book calls this 5.9, maybe 10b now for the boulder start.

Pitch 2, cruxy face climb through bolts. (10a) some small cams too

Pitch 3, sustained hand and finger crack- classic! (10b) save a #3 or #4 for the top out- easy OW.

Pitch 4, fun 5.9 , directly above anchor at top of 3rd pitch, can be wet early season at the start. Mostly bolts with some cam placements. Crux mid way up layback up side pulls and crimpy.

Location 

This is the 1st route on the left side of Careno Crag. Small cleft in the face behind maples with a bolt with a tricky boulder move. You can rap off to the right to the top of the Regular route, and then walk off on ledges to the NE, or rap down the Regular route, or walk around corner and rap down Bale Kramar after the 1st rap off the regular route.

Protection 

gear to 3". 3 bolts on 1st pitch,2nd and 4th pitches have 6 bolts each.
All bolted anchors. The anchor at the top of pitch 4 may have slings, but no chain, and it would be a long rappel ( 70m rope would work). We traversed over to just above the top of the Regular route and is a single rope rappel. It may be hard to spot, below and east or right of the top out, requires a walk on level with top out till a rap station is found that is easy yet exposed.


Photos of Bale/Kramar route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Onsighting Pitch 3
Nick Onsighting Pitch 3

Comments on Bale/Kramar route Add Comment
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By Tess Wendel
From: Seattle, WA
May 16, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Getting off the ground was definitely the hardest part on the whole route and I don't think being short helped. Definitely would call that first couple moves closer to 5.11.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
May 23, 2016

I agree with Tess, being 5'7" with my +3 t-rex index getting off the ground was the hardest part of the whole route by far for me.

P2 was great fun on thin edges, I didn't see a point to bringing small cams though, any placements aren't where it's cruxy.

P3 is classic and sustained. A #3 at the top is fine, I wouldn't bring a #4. Bring some thin gear if you want to protect getting out of the initial overhang. I put in a green c3 and a #4 brass offset before committing to the bump out left to the perfect..........ah I'm not going to spoil it :)

P4 was a bit of a write off. When you get up to the first bolt give those flakes a tap, the lowest sounds a bit hollow and it's attachment was a bit suspect to me. This pitch was pretty mungy and I personally didn't find the movement to be that much fun. It might have just been overshadowed by the prior two pitches though.
By Matthew Bernstein
Jun 24, 2016

dido the start being more like 5.11