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Bald Rock Recreational Preserve

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Bear's Den, The 
Chocolate Factory 
Motherlode, The 
Unlode, The 

Bald Rock Recreational Preserve Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.64497, -83.71398 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 41,208
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 11, 2017
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Jeff Fulgham feelin' the pump on Snooker. Fall 200...

Description 

In January 2017 the RRGCC purchased 102 acres guaranteeing access to some of the best and most famous areas that the RRG has to offer. The Motherlode, the Chocolate Factory, The Bear's Den and the Unlode. Climbing began at the Motherlode over 25 years ago, and has some of the steepest and hardest lines the Red has to offer. The purchase of this area secured access to 226 routes, ranging from 5.2 to 5.14c.

Working with the Access Fund the RRGCC purchased these cliffs for $235,000. However a substantial sum on the mortgage is still owed, so consider donating today. For more information or to donate see: rrgcc.networkforgood.com/proje...

Getting There 

To get to the Bald Rock Recreational Preserve from Miguel's, travel south on KY 11 south of Torrent Falls. Turn right on to 498, and after about a mile turn right onto Bald Fork Road. Park only in designated parking areas and steer clear of all oil production equipment. Parking can be an issue at the top of the hill, so carpool if possible, and be sure not to block the roadway.

To get to the BRRP from Lago Linda's, turn right onto 399, turn right onto 52. From highway 52 turn left onto 498. After about 1 mile turn left onto Bald Fork Road.

Please slow down when driving past homes on Bald Rock Fork Road (aka the road that leads from 498 to the BRRP/PMRP). The speed limit on this road is 10 mph and driving too quickly creates dust which negatively affects the residents along the road.

NOTE: Access to many crags in the BRRP/PMRP may be problematical without a high-clearance vehicle. In the fall of 2016, the hill down to the bottom was difficult without four wheel drive and good clearance.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.8 miles from here

136 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',28],['3 Stars',65],['2 Stars',36],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',22],['5.11',37],['5.12',44],['5.13',18],['>=5.14',4],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Bald Rock Recreational Preserve

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bald Rock Recreational Preserve:
Grandpa Joe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Chocolate Factory
Chocolate River   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Chocolate Factory
Augustus Gloop   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Chocolate Factory
Sugar Rush   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Chocolate Factory
EGBG   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Chocolate Factory
Oompa   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Chocolate Factory
Wonkaholic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   Chocolate Factory
Robotic Thumb   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Chocolate Factory
Loompa   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Chocolate Factory
The Glass Elevator   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   Chocolate Factory
Injured Reserve   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   The Motherlode : Warm-Up Wall
Hip to the Jive   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   Chocolate Factory
Enkidu   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   Chocolate Factory
Snozzberries   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Chocolate Factory
Chainsaw Massacre   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Motherlode : Undertow Wall
Burlier's Bane   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Motherlode : Undertow Wall
J Rat's Back   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Chocolate Factory
Swedish Fish   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Chocolate Factory
Buff the Wood   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Motherlode : Buckeye Buttress
Ale-8-One   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Motherlode : Undertow Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bald Rock Recreational Preserve

Featured Route For Bald Rock Recreational Preserve
Rock Climbing Photo: Robin on Ale-8-One. Fall 2009. mattkuehlphoto.com

Ale-8-One 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : ... : Undertow Wall
Launch into this Undertow classic by bouldering up through several crimpy moves that trend right. Gain a jug and a shake before charging up generally good pockets and the occasional long reach. As you endeavor through the steepness, resist the temptation to scream "TAKE" at your loving belayer. He/She is only there to help. Clipping the anchors provides a challenge as the finishing hold is nothing to write home about....[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

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