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Balcony Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bluto's Bluster T,TR 
Brutus TR 
Cliff Monster T,TR 
Crown Of Thorns T,TR 
Gold Medallist T,TR 
J. Wellington Wimpy TR 
Olive Oyl T,TR 
Poopdeck Pappy TR 
Popeye's T,TR 
Popeye's Left T,TR 
Professor Watasnozzle TR 
Sweet Pea T,TR 
Thumb Press T,TR 
Thumb Press Right T,TR 
Train Song TR 

Balcony Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 113'
Location: 39.3249, -77.7178 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,704
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Phil Westcott on Mar 17, 2012
Forecast:
Tonight

53°
Wednesday

74° | 56°
Thursday

83° | 61°
Friday

82° | 63°
Saturday

85° | 62°
Sunday

77° | 62°
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Balcony Rock routes from left to right: Popeye'...

Description 

Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.

Getting There 

Balcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.

Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.

Climbing Season

For the Harper's Ferry area.

Weather station 1.0 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Balcony Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Balcony Rock:
Crown Of Thorns   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   
Cliff Monster   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Train Song   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Popeye's   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   
Gold Medallist   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Balcony Rock

Featured Route For Balcony Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Joey Williams leading Bluto'so Bluster

Bluto's Bluster 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13  Maryland : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Rock
A difficult finger crack layback and dyno will get you off the ground to the nice face climb above. Start on the same ramp/corner system as Cliff Monster, but instead of going left up the ramp, go directly up the crack to the ledge above. From the ledge, make a bee line for the top on the smooth face, using thin cracks and crimps. It's 5.10+ near the top if you stay on the smooth face to the left of the "Mar..." graffiti, but right of the blocky ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Maryland

Photos of Balcony Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Balcony Rock routes from left to right: Cliff Mons...
Balcony Rock routes from left to right: Cliff Mons...
Rock Climbing Photo: Can anyone help with what route this is? I travers...
BETA PHOTO: Can anyone help with what route this is? I travers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gat...
Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gat...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of trail from road.
View of trail from road.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of trail from road.
View of trail from road.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock steps. Whoever built these did a great job.
Rock steps. Whoever built these did a great job.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach trail from above.
Approach trail from above.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom half of previous image. Balcony Rock with r...
Bottom half of previous image. Balcony Rock with r...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the crag from down-trail.
View of the crag from down-trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: This One inch crack helps with TR anchor.
This One inch crack helps with TR anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Close up of bolt. Fixie hardware. Rust on beaner o...
Close up of bolt. Fixie hardware. Rust on beaner o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt on top of main wall.
Bolt on top of main wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of anchor as you approach.
View of anchor as you approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of top from the trail. Down and to the right ...
View of top from the trail. Down and to the right ...
Rock Climbing Photo: About the center of the main wall looking left (we...
About the center of the main wall looking left (we...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view from down-trail.
Another view from down-trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Balcony Rock with the rope hanging on the bolt/gea...
Balcony Rock with the rope hanging on the bolt/gea...

Comments on Balcony Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By doc
Jan 13, 2015
Route pictured I named CamelFlake. Looks like left variation from pic. This place was my second home and sure alot were 1st accents. The rt straight over top of flake is doable use kneebar and pray for long arms! Popeyes revenge is the best power route.if any way I can help anyone else out id be more than happy to. You can catch me at Walter Holliday@ yahoo.com. by the way...need a partner.get tired of bouldering. Hit me up.we'll have a blast. Peace n climb on!!! DOC
By doc
Jan 13, 2015
Oops...sorry.never named that. Have free soloed so in the lower range. The Fairway is on the left.sorry bout dat. DOC
By brian007m Martin
May 3, 2016
Do not park in turnaround even on weekend! I had just parked there on a Sunday and had to move my car so a community bus could turn around.
By Lex Rodgers
From: Martinsburg, WV
Mar 25, 2017
Parking Update: officers are ticketing anyone that parks in the school bus turnaround even on weekends.
New Trail: there is an EMS access trail that runs from the school bus turnaround to the top of balcony and finally to Balcony Jr. It is well developed and makes the hike to jr much gentler. However, I believe it's also one reason why they are enforcing parking restrictions more strickly.

Trying parking under/around the bridge on sandy hook or at the MARC station in town and walk the foot bridge over the river.
By David Carrier
From: White Salmon, WA
Apr 13, 2017
Parking update: On Sunday April 9, 2017 the bus turnaround was jammed full with about 10-12 cars parked illegally. A Washington County Officer showed up around 3:00 and issued warnings and $60 parking tickets to everyone parked there. He said the local fire department needs to keep the turnaround lot free for emergency vehicles, and that they call the police department whenever they need to clear the turnaround area. Climbers can park under the Rt. 340 bridge or at the turnout for the Maryland Heights trail and ride a bike to the trailhead.

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