Balcony Rock Rock Climbing
Balcony Rock routes from left to right: Popeye'...
Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.
Balcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.
Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.
Climbing Season For the Harper's Ferry area.
Weather station 1.0 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Balcony Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Balcony Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Balcony Rock:
Cliff Monster 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Train Song 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Popeye's 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Featured Route For Balcony Rock
Bluto's Bluster 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
: Harper's Ferry
: Balcony Rock
A difficult finger crack layback and dyno will get you off the ground to the nice face climb above. Start on the same ramp/corner system as Cliff Monster, but instead of going left up the ramp, go directly up the crack to the ledge above. From the ledge, make a bee line for the top on the smooth face, using thin cracks and crimps. It's 5.10+ near the top if you stay on the smooth face to the left of the "Mar..." graffiti, but right of the blocky ...[more] Browse More Classics in Maryland
Balcony Rock routes from left to right: Cliff Mons...
BETA PHOTO: Can anyone help with what route this is? I travers...
Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gat...
Rock steps. Whoever built these did a great job.
Approach trail from above.
Bottom half of previous image. Balcony Rock with r...
View of the crag from down-trail.
This One inch crack helps with TR anchor.
Close up of bolt. Fixie hardware. Rust on beaner o...
Bolt on top of main wall.
View of anchor as you approach.
View of top from the trail. Down and to the right ...
About the center of the main wall looking left (we...
Another view from down-trail.
Balcony Rock with the rope hanging on the bolt/gea...
Jan 13, 2015
Route pictured I named CamelFlake. Looks like left variation from pic. This place was my second home and sure alot were 1st accents. The rt straight over top of flake is doable use kneebar and pray for long arms! Popeyes revenge is the best power route.if any way I can help anyone else out id be more than happy to. You can catch me at Walter Holliday@ yahoo.com. by the way...need a partner.get tired of bouldering. Hit me up.we'll have a blast. Peace n climb on!!! DOC
Jan 13, 2015
Oops...sorry.never named that. Have free soloed so in the lower range. The Fairway is on the left.sorry bout dat. DOC
By brian007m Martin
May 3, 2016
Do not park in turnaround even on weekend! I had just parked there on a Sunday and had to move my car so a community bus could turn around.
By Lex Rodgers
From: Martinsburg, WV
Mar 25, 2017
Parking Update: officers are ticketing anyone that parks in the school bus turnaround even on weekends.
New Trail: there is an EMS access trail that runs from the school bus turnaround to the top of balcony and finally to Balcony Jr. It is well developed and makes the hike to jr much gentler. However, I believe it's also one reason why they are enforcing parking restrictions more strickly.
Trying parking under/around the bridge on sandy hook or at the MARC station in town and walk the foot bridge over the river.
By David Carrier
From: White Salmon, WA
Apr 13, 2017
Parking update: On Sunday April 9, 2017 the bus turnaround was jammed full with about 10-12 cars parked illegally. A Washington County Officer showed up around 3:00 and issued warnings and $60 parking tickets to everyone parked there. He said the local fire department needs to keep the turnaround lot free for emergency vehicles, and that they call the police department whenever they need to clear the turnaround area. Climbers can park under the Rt. 340 bridge or at the turnout for the Maryland Heights trail and ride a bike to the trailhead.