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The Balconies
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Balconies- Regular Route T 
Brosseau Finish, The T 
Desperate Abandon T 
Gold Line T 
Inn Crowd, The T 
Lava Falls T 
No Sense of Measure S 
Powers That Be, The S 
Premeditated T 
Shake-N-Bake T 

Balconies- Regular Route 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Frank Sacherer, Howard Bradley, Steve Roper, 12/1961 FFA Tom Higgins, Chris Vandiver, 5/1979
Page Views: 94
Submitted By: David Delkeskamp on Oct 29, 2016

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Description 

Nice line but sketchey rock quality! High choss factor with a wee bit of bat guano mixed in. The charm for me was climbing a line put up by Yosemite hard guys way back in 1961. For perspective, the Salathe Wall on El Cap was put up just three months earlier. I wonder how many bolts had been placed anywhere on the planet before Sacherer, Bradley, and Roper put up this line? Wonder how much time and effort each bolt entailed?
First pitch felt like sustained 5.10 and crux felt 10c-ish.
This route gets direct morning sun and cooks on warm days.

Location 

Approach as for Lava Falls; a few minutes past the Lava Falls turnoff from the big trail look for a climber's trail (there are a few signs with carabiners painted on them) and head up. DESCENT: Hike a few minutes down hill and (double rope) rappel route #728. Big fixed anchor with chains here. Note: This area is usually closed for for bird nesting January through July; check before you go.

Protection 

This line was retrobolted by Clint Cummins and "Friends of the Pinnacles" in 2006. Thanks Clint and FOP! Many draws. I did place a few cams (red and yellow camalots) up high as well as a few nuts. The gear info in Young's guide was spot on for me. Combining pitches works (Young's guide calls it four pitches) but be mindfull of rope drag.


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By Brad Young
Nov 9, 2016

Nice entry David, complete with all the FA information and excellent comments.

Could I offer one slight correction though? The route was rebolted (not retrobolted). I think retrobolting is generally accepted to mean "adding bolts." Clint and FoP rebolted it (and wouldn't ever add bolts). My continuing thanks to him and them too.

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