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6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 
13 5.4 Corner T 
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 
6.63 Smoots T,TR 
Basswood Chimney T,TR 
Beer and Booty T,TR 
Bifurcation T,TR 
Der Glotz TR 
False Dilemma T 
Fear and Trembling TR 
Grandma's Staircase TR 
Indigo Billy T,TR 
Invitation T,TR 
Invitation Direct T,TR 
Law and Gospel T,TR 
Moondust  T 
Morning After T 
Mr. Neutron TR 
New Box T,TR 
Night Before TR 
R.S.V.P. T,TR 
Red Pulpit T,TR 
Spring Fever TR 
Sunken Pillar T,TR 
Switch Cover Crack T 
Unnamed Short route T,TR 
Watermarks T,TR 
Watermarks Direct T,TR 
Watermarks Left Side TR 

6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 43.4143, -89.7252 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,775
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James M Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 24, 2002
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Balanced Rock at sunset, April 09.


The Balanced Rock Wall is one of the most popular climbing spots at Devil's Lake, and it's also a good place to go to impress day hikers since the Balanced Rock Trail passes along the base of the wall. The Balanced Rock Wall is a 40 foot wall containing the classic climb Watermarks (5.8), along with a handful of other moderate and enjoyable climbs. Access is fairly easy and straight forward, and the quality of the climbs is high. The only downside to the formation is the likelihood that you'll encounter a lot of people throughout the day. If you're looking to show off, this is the place for you. If you're looking for solitude, steer clear.

Getting There 

To gain access to the Balanced Rock Wall hike up the Balanced Rock trail about halfway up the bluff. Twenty minutes of rock steps (10 if you're fast) and you will come upon this fine piece of rock. You really will have a hard time getting lost when looking for the Balanced Rock Wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.6 miles from here

30 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall:
New Box   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 45'   
Sunken Pillar   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR   
Red Pulpit   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   
Watermarks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 50'   
Der Glotz   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR   
Watermarks Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR   
Beer and Booty   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Morning After   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad   
Moondust    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

Featured Route For 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Closer look at Der Glotz.

Der Glotz 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
Der Glotz is a great route situated between Watermarks and Sunken Pillar. It follows a right-trending diagonal ledge up to some tough moves up along the left side of the zig-zag overhangs of Watermarks Left Side. To climb get up onto the diagonal ledge (ledge is about 2" wide) and use careful hands to work right until ledge runs out. At the top of the ledge reach up to a rectangular pocket. Pull up on this pocket and move your feet up so you can get your feet up into this pocket. From here ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Goldenrod
Rock Climbing Photo: Gokul and Angie, cleaning up graffiti
Gokul and Angie, cleaning up graffiti
Rock Climbing Photo: The solitude and serenity of Watermarks Wall on a ...
The solitude and serenity of Watermarks Wall on a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: What climbs are these next to "Red Pulpit?&qu...
What climbs are these next to "Red Pulpit?&qu...
Rock Climbing Photo: BH bouldering on the Lou Reed Boulder, Balanced Ro...
BH bouldering on the Lou Reed Boulder, Balanced Ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan on FA of Moondust 5.10d, circa 1976
Bob Horan on FA of Moondust 5.10d, circa 1976

Comments on 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Aug 11, 2011
This area can be a total mess with hikers, tourists, scouts, and climbers mixed up in a blender. Get their really early to avoid the sun and then split for elsewhere. The climbs are getting pretty beat too with many layers of rubber and chalk.

Sunken Pillar, Watermarks, Morning After and New Box are the climbs to do.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Aug 17, 2011
Do Moondust too! A steeper, shorter version of Sometime Direct. One of the better protected 5.11s in the park.