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Balance of Power S 
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Balance of Power 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Bryan Schmitz, Pete Thompson
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Feb 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from bottom of Balance of Power. Amazin...

Description 

A great route that requires three mini roof pulls. One of the longer single pitch climbs in the area. Bring slings and think about your clips to avoid rope drag. A 70 meter rope will leave you about 3 feet above the ground on the rappel. If you have a shorter rope there is an intermediate anchor about 5/8's of the way down. Pro-Tip: If you rap with a 70 you can use the intermediate anchor to allow you to rap all the way down to the scree field, thus avoiding the chossy downclimb of the chute.

Location 

In the middle of the wall this is the bolt line that heads left and through a series of roofs.

Protection 

17 Draws. Bring slings to make the rope drag less intense. 2 chain anchor at the top with another 2 chain anchor half way down the wall to assist those with shorter ropes.


Photos of Balance of Power Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clark stepping off the vein. about 1/4 the way up.
Clark stepping off the vein. about 1/4 the way up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Balance of Power
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Balance of Power

Comments on Balance of Power Add Comment
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By Matt Wenger
From: Bozeman
Nov 5, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

We used 5 extendable draws. Such a great route! One of the best in the area. 70m rope BARELY puts you back on the ground If you are lightweight you could land on some big ledges just up and right of the belay. Midway rappel anchors are obvious for people with shorter ropes.
By Trevor Olson
From: Bozeman
Nov 7, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

As Matt Wenger said above, we used 5 extendable draws, but to be perfectly honest, I would've been happier with more. We just ran out of them. Almost wouldn't hurt to extend just about every bolt...But regardless, a GREAT route. Not very sustained either. In my opinion, probably only 10a, and just 3 moves of that (split up through the route) Each roof is a crux.