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Balance Due T 
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Balance Due 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Dave Evans & Dave Bruckman, December 1986
Season: Fall or Spring
Page Views: 1,161
Submitted By: Graham Roff on Apr 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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hillary on balance due, far above the wonderland


This route ascends the set of short cracks to the right of "Too Secret to Find" (the main crack on this face).
Mostly face climbing with a few finger jams up to the horizontal, then delicate face moves to gain the upper crack. The crux is the upper face section.
A fun route with interesting moves, definitely worth doing if you are in the area.

Descend from the summit of the dome by downclimbing to the climber's left back into the gully.


The bottom section protects surprisingly well with nuts and small TCUs. Two bolts protect the upper face section past the horizontal crack.
A belay must be set at the top (medium cams will do).

Photos of Balance Due Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rick on Balance Due.
Rick on Balance Due.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rick on Balance Due.
Rick on Balance Due.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb the set of slashes on the right side of the ...
BETA PHOTO: Climb the set of slashes on the right side of the ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 6, 2017
By Kristian Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Nov 9, 2007

FYI I replaced the bolts on this route 11/02/07. The originals were 1" hardware store junk. It is now equipped with 3.5" 5 piece rawls. Someone has set a convenience anchor at the top. This is not my work.

A really nice route, by the way...
By JoshuaTreeRunner David
From: Los Angeles
Apr 23, 2008

Cool! Thanks for replacing the bolts... Gonna head back out there this weekend...
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Nov 19, 2010

The guidebook calls this 10c PG. If Screaming Poodle, two routes over, is 10c, Balance Due struck me as a couple of letter grades harder.
By Tyler Williams
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 25, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

That's funny - I thought screaming poodle was maybe 1 letter grade easier. At least the crux. Very different styles, for sure, and definitely significantly harder than too secret to find.
By Tradiban
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The new Vogel selects guide (5.10b) has this clipping the bolts than traversing off right but traversing off would be better to do at the horizontal and not bother to clip the bolts. wish I would have known the proper way was straight up, looked pretty good.

The bolts in the hueco at the top are missing hangers but there's a nice net of anchors right over "Too Secret to Find".
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 13, 2012

Those bolts in the hueco are for slacklining. I think they're 5/8ths.
By Tradiban
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Ah yes, they seemed to be in a strange spot. Where's the other side?
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 14, 2012

Not 100% sure but I think they're on the formation due north (can't remember the name but it has some routes).

You see a lot of those really fat 3 bolt stud clusters in josh for highlines, I think I've run into about 5 of them so far just topping things out.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Thin pro placements make this a proud send. Bomber gear but get your head on for thin stuff. Bolts are fat and well placed with primary crag anchor up top. Stoppers, small gear and your lid on tight… that's what this route takes. Absolutely worth doing is any move harder than 10b? Not sure, but I'll go with 10c as it's game on for the lead.
By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 10, 2014

Great route offering a nice mix of thin cracks and delicate face. Technical the whole way, but broken by a nice stance at about halfway. The gear in the first section is all bomber, but can be fiddly to place. Brass and small camming units will sew it up. Crux is up high and is well-protected.
By Dustin Stephens
Feb 6, 2017
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

One of my favorite 5.10's in Joshua Tree. Sustained and excellent climbing. Healthy run above the second bolt, but the crux is well protected.

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