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Baggage 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 1100', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X [details]
FA: Ben F. & Maura H. 3-20-2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Mar 26, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Photo/Topo for route "Baggage"

Description 

Pitch 1- Climb face and an intermediate crack system, past the left side of a block, past a ledge, to a smaller stance at good cams & nuts.
5.7r 225'

Pitch 2- Continue up steepening rock, taking advantage of all possible protection in the mostly closed crack. Tricky slab and face climbing leads over the bulge to the left of a large, pink block. Continue up past a ledge and easier ground to the start of a prominent groove. Belay from cams.
5.8R 225'

Pitch 3- Easy climbing up the groove leads to ledges above. 4th class 220'

Pitch 4- Up and slightly left for a very long pitch with no protection. Mostly 5.3 but with a short 5.5 bulge. (some simul-climbing involved) Belay on low angle ledges.
5.5x 260' (The summit register for Holey Ghost was found on top of this pitch)

Pitch 5- Move the belay right a hundred feet or so and climb the left side of the summit slab up left leaning holes and then onto the front and easier climbing leading to a belay in a groove below the top.
5.5r 210'

A couple hundred feet of easy scrambling lead to the summit and another register.

To descend, downclimb to the top of pitch 5 and down 4th class territory on the front of the slab to reach rappel anchors for the route "On a Wing and a Prayer". Three 60 meter rappels reach the bottom.

Location 

From the mouth of Uneva Mine Canyon, follow the trail north along the front of the slabs for a short distance to a side canyon on the left. Follow this small side canyon and as it turns left at the base of the slab, there is a cairn leaning against the slab. This is the start of the route.

Protection 

We had a set of cams from 3/4" to 4" Some extra medium sizes would have been nice. We also brought a set of stoppers which were also very useful.

We did not leave any bolts or fixed protection on this route. We did however use the bolted anchors for On a Wing and a Prayer to descend. Thanks Paul!


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By USBRIT Ross
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Apr 7, 2010

...Well Ben glad you cleared that up ... Close shave!

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