REI Community
G Crags
Select Route:
A Frayed Not T 
Baggage T 
By the Seat of Your Pants T 
Holey Ghost, The T 
Middle Finger T 
Mitten, The T 
On a Wing and a Prayer T 
Reef Knot T 
Slab family Ross and Son. T 
Thumb, The T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 1100', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X [details]
FA: Ben F. & Maura H. 3-20-2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Mar 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Photo/Topo for route "Baggage"


Pitch 1- Climb face and an intermediate crack system, past the left side of a block, past a ledge, to a smaller stance at good cams & nuts.
5.7r 225'

Pitch 2- Continue up steepening rock, taking advantage of all possible protection in the mostly closed crack. Tricky slab and face climbing leads over the bulge to the left of a large, pink block. Continue up past a ledge and easier ground to the start of a prominent groove. Belay from cams.
5.8R 225'

Pitch 3- Easy climbing up the groove leads to ledges above. 4th class 220'

Pitch 4- Up and slightly left for a very long pitch with no protection. Mostly 5.3 but with a short 5.5 bulge. (some simul-climbing involved) Belay on low angle ledges.
5.5x 260' (The summit register for Holey Ghost was found on top of this pitch)

Pitch 5- Move the belay right a hundred feet or so and climb the left side of the summit slab up left leaning holes and then onto the front and easier climbing leading to a belay in a groove below the top.
5.5r 210'

A couple hundred feet of easy scrambling lead to the summit and another register.

To descend, downclimb to the top of pitch 5 and down 4th class territory on the front of the slab to reach rappel anchors for the route "On a Wing and a Prayer". Three 60 meter rappels reach the bottom.


From the mouth of Uneva Mine Canyon, follow the trail north along the front of the slabs for a short distance to a side canyon on the left. Follow this small side canyon and as it turns left at the base of the slab, there is a cairn leaning against the slab. This is the start of the route.


We had a set of cams from 3/4" to 4" Some extra medium sizes would have been nice. We also brought a set of stoppers which were also very useful.

We did not leave any bolts or fixed protection on this route. We did however use the bolted anchors for On a Wing and a Prayer to descend. Thanks Paul!

Comments on Baggage Add Comment
Show which comments
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Apr 7, 2010

...Well Ben glad you cleared that up ... Close shave!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About