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Angry Bunnies S 
Aunt Fannie T,TR 
Bag of Stems T 
Basic Training T 
Big Fat Crack T,TR 
Bologna Pony S 
Buster Bronco T,TR 
Copperhead T 
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Overlord S 
Petty Theft S 
Spiny Trouble S 
Swimmin' in Ignorance T 
Temple, The T 
Toddler S,TR 
Trimmed Bush T 
Unknown Leon S 
Win, Lose, or Draw S 

Bag of Stems 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Bob Boyles, Mike Weber c.1975
Page Views: 308
Submitted By: Zach Weyn on Mar 2, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Placing pro...

Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

This is the chimney to the right of Unknown Leon. There is nowhere good to place protection until you go above and stand on a small boulder wedged in the bottom of the chimney, which is about 15 ft up. There are a couple horizontal cracks after that, and after that there is a 20 ft blank section. I climbed facing away from the cliffs, and about 5 ft below the anchor was a pocket behind me that was deep enough to stuff a C3 into.

The chimney walls are well featured and offer very secure stances. Bring a solid mental game.

Protection 

BD C4 Camalots #1 - 0.75 and a couple tip size cams. Bring 2-3 slings to extend some placements. Chains to anchors at top.


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By Trevor.
From: Boise, ID
Mar 2, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X

May as well just go up with nothing but draws to clip the anchors, any pro you get is too low to do much of anything once you're off the ledge. It's really secure and easy chimneying though.
By Old lady H
From: Boise, Idaho
Mar 12, 2016

My partner hiked up and put up a top rope. That done, it's an easy chimney for beginners. Soggy if it's rained lately, though.

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