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Electric Lady Land
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Bag of Sand T 
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Bag of Sand 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: spring and fall. Gets evening shade.
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Ketchup on Apr 17, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The route takes the slabby crack rightward, then a...

Description 

For years I thought this was Electric Lady Land. Thus the name at a rating of 8+! At 10b it's still no gimme! FA and original name are unknown. But we can't call everything "unknown". Likely this route continues to the top in another pitch though the rock quality looks worse.

Jam and layback a right facing corner up to a flared slot. Getting back into the layback at the slot is probably the crux but turning the bulge just above is also hard. Pass a fixed Hex and continue up the tight hands and stemming corner to a bolt and piton anchor on a sloping ledge. Please don't remove the Hex. It keeps the rope from jamming in the crack. Sweet jamming and clean rock. Tape your cuticles; it's sharp in there!

Location 

Walk the approach canyon for Notch past the turn to Electric Lady Land to the end of the granite. Granite walls end on both sides of the Canyon here. This route is a large right (SE) facing corner on the Northern wall. Scramble over a big boulder and belay on a slab at the base. Watch for the rope going in the cactus!

Protection 

Red and Yellow C3s, .3 Camalot, doubles .4 - 2, optional 3 backs up the anchor, #5 C4 protects the crux. Nuts could be used in places.


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