Badges? We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges
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This is a fun route that we thought was harder than it looks. Start by climbing past a bolt and making crux moves into a shallow finger crack. Climb more easily past an overlap and then to a headwall with three bolts. We thought there was another crux between the second and third bolt on the headwall, but your mileage may vary. After the third bolt, climb more easily up to a large ledge on which a belay anchor can be built.
(Note: the route name and first ascentionists were obtained from Fixed Pin's free guide to the area.)
This is located towards the left side of the Permission Wall. The start can be found by locating a bolt right below a shallow finger crack.
To descend after topping out, unrope and walk to the left over to a good ledge that overlooks the Tan Corridor. You'll find a rappel anchor; descend down to the trail from there.
Four bolts and gear. We used small (purple C3) to a #3 Camalot. Gear can be placed between the bolts on the headwall if desired. Build your own anchor with gear before scrambling over to the descent.
|Comments on Badges? We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges
By Mitch Musci
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 2, 2014
Awesome route! A few medium-sized cams and nuts supplement the bolts well, and a large boulder on the left side of the ledge up top can be slung for an anchor. The climbing through the headwall is brilliant, don't miss this one!
By Alex A
Mar 12, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Fun climb with trad crux at the start and sport crux up higher, BUT I think the sport crux is PG-13.