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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Don Lauber (1982)
Page Views: 1,073
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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This pitch is really pretty nice. Don't let the stained corner fool you; although it appears so, it really is not wet or slimy.

P1 - Climb the arching corner to its top, then traverse right to an obvious break in the roof. Climb the roof at the break, then up a left-facing corner and face. Traverse left to the Raunchy belay/rap tree.


Just right of Raunchy, at the base of an arching orange corner that only looks wet and is capped by a medium sized roof to the right.


Standard Gunks rack + long slings and/or double ropes.

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By paulmadry
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

5.9+ for me with an accent on the +.
By gtluke
Jun 16, 2014

The roof is actually pretty easy considering it's gigantic. However, getting to it is not. Really really fun. Do it!
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 9, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

This is one of those 5.9+ that felt harder for me than many 5.10- and 5.10a. Tricky moves and tricky gear.

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