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Apocalypse Walls
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An Elephant Never Forgets  T 
Apocalypse Later S 
Bad Seed S 
Captain Fingers S 
Corporal Punishment S 
Good Earth S 
Kate's Arete S 
Serenity Now S 
Supreme Onion Sacrifice S 
They Come and They Go T 

Bad Seed 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jerry Handren, 1987
Page Views: 1,252
Submitted By: James Otey on Feb 5, 2009

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Tom on Bad Seed

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Bad Seed was originally rated 5.12a, but due to some unplanned hold exfoliation, it is now considered to be 5.12d. Climb the crimpy face to a low crux- a big move off an undercling of questionable size. Finesse, slope and undercling your way up for a few more moves and punch it to the chains.

Holds break off this thing like the plague...the beta changes faster than a runway model. In any case, get the tendons working and have at it!

Location 

Scramble up to the base of a dank looking gully to the right of Apocalypse Later. Of the two routes go up this face- Bad Seed goes left and Good Earth goes right.

Protection 

4 Bolts


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 5, 2009

i got on this thing by mistake before i learned to use a guide book... and man it was hard and the bolts are far apart so its tough to work it like a sport climber... i soon realized that Captain Fingers was further right and hooked it up...

i didnt really enjoy the moves so i never got back on it... maybe its broken enough that its a classic now... prolly not...

"changes faster than a super model" good one, snoogans...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 23, 2011

It is too bad this has fallen apart. It used to be a pretty good route, with interesting hard moves. It is an example of how Rumney routes need to be cleaned hard and heavy when first put up if they are going to have a chance to stand time, especially if using glue-ins, which are difficult to move.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R

Anybody knows if this route is still climbable?
I went on it and man it was hard. I mean impossible.
Thanks!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 29, 2013

ive been meaning to rap in to it and see if it will still work... I think checking it from the top down will be the easiest way to see if its still a route...
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Mar 24, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Did this one in March 2016 and can confirm it is still climbable. The moves are hard to figure out, but it felt like 12d to me. Seems like the holds that are present will be there for a while. It can be a bit painful at times, but the moves are quite fun. Also, if you want to feel a bit safer, do what I did and hang a 24-inch sling in the 3rd bolt and clip mid crux.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 5, 2016

Great news Will! I was just thinking I would ask around if it had been done in recent memory.
I was also thinking of hanging a long draw off of the 3rd so thanks for confirming that as a good plan.
By Charles Lachance
From: Sherbrooke, Quebec
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

The two bolts of the anchor are on a flake... It doesn't sound hollow. Anyone ever checked if it was solid?

Should probably be rated PG13. Fell at the crux, just before clipping the bolt and landed 3 feet above the ground (Belayer was light, but still...).
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 6, 2017

I got on this today to figure out the moves. I am at a loss as to how I could make it feel close to 5.12d... I typically do routes in this difficulty range in a few tries. I couldn't even get a couple of the moves individually on this one... The beta I was working with I feel would be in the 13c/d range. Seemed like solid 5.12 climbing with a V9 move in the middle. What magic am I missing here? I admit I was a little low energy today but dang... Beta please? Will?
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 10, 2017
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Lee, this line zig zags quite a bit. At the start of the crux, I kind of went out way left and remember using a bad under cling maybe with my right hand. Then up to a bad crimp that I could barely clip an extended sling off of. The hardest part was getting around the 3rd bolt. Felt like an easier and slightly more painful version of Dark Star. The holds are there, but I don't remember the beta too much. It felt 13a to me at first, but hard 12d when I sent it. I don't know if any of this helps.

I would strongly recommend stick clipping each section and figuring out the sequences on TR.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 10, 2017

Thanks Will, That makes sense with my experience on it. Sounds like you did what I tried but with more success haha. I did have the little incut undercling in my right hand but had very little for my left and it was a big move to the next (shitty) crimp.

I was working it on self belay TR this time. Years ago I tried ground up and hit the shutdown moves at the same spot. I guess I need to get back to it on a good day... and get stronger haha.

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