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Routes in Linville River Crag
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Bad Monkey T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Casual Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chimney Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clever Corner T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Creepy Corner T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crimson Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Default Plan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Entrance Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Garden Variety T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gary's route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hell In A Handbasket T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Hemlock Arete T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In there like swimwear... T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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It's about Time... T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jackpot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Light Thoughts... T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slim Pickins' S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Switcharoo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tightsqueeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unnamed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Vaseline Machine Gun T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,890 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Jul 2, 2011 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
For the past few years there have been a number of strong climbers to gawk up at this wild roof crack, only to write it off as impossible (at least to reach -- the start is blank). Recently, a friend (Andrew) made a great suggestion -- do a long & pumpy downward traverse across a heel hooking rail to reach the crack... and it actually goes fairly easily, or at least the traverse does! This climb can be done in the rainiest of conditions due to the huge roof features.
Start up and right on top of boulder -- also have your belayer here. Climb past a #.4 camelot and 4 bolts (optional 1" cam) to the crack. The 4th bolt has a fixed draw for now (the bolt is high because of inadequate rock lower). Make a difficult transition into the crack and gain a desperate "rest" on the foot pedestal. Continue out the strenuous horizontal roof crack to an anchor at the lip.
Note: The anchor was originally 15' higher than the current one. It's possible that some gifted climber could pull the final roof (likely at 5.13), but there are some logistical issues with that. I'd be happy to divulge more info if someone is interested.
Start up and right on top of boulder -- also have your belayer here. Climb past a #.4 camelot and 4 bolts (optional 1" cam) to the crack. The 4th bolt has a fixed draw for now (the bolt is high because of inadequate rock lower). Make a difficult transition into the crack and gain a desperate "rest" on the foot pedestal. Continue out the strenuous horizontal roof crack to an anchor at the lip.
Note: The anchor was originally 15' higher than the current one. It's possible that some gifted climber could pull the final roof (likely at 5.13), but there are some logistical issues with that. I'd be happy to divulge more info if someone is interested.
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