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Bad Makeup (5.11c/5.9) S 
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Bad Makeup (5.11c/5.9) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jacob Britt/Micah Klesick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Jun 14, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Bad Makeup

Description 

This route has two variations. If you go straight up the wall, following the bolts, it is a very dynamic 5.11c (read crimps to a dyno crux). If you clip the first bolt, then follow the curving finger crack up to the right, you can place two cams in the crack, and follow it up until you can move onto the face to finish out the top 3 bolts. That goes at 5.9. (refer to topo for visual reference).
The lower part of the face has a slightly crumbly texture in parts that is about 1/3" deep, which will clean up with use. Good crimpers are in there though.

Location 

bolt line going up a wide section of the cliff, just above a ledge about 10' off the ground.

Protection 

5 bolts. two bolt anchor at the top.


Comments on Bad Makeup (5.11c/5.9) Add Comment
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By Jon Daniels
From: Portland, OR
Mar 10, 2015

Great line with a difficult but nicely protected start on good crimps. The upper half is superb. If the bottom firms up it will be a stratosphere classic.
By BrianWilson
From: Brush Prairie, Washington
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

5.10d/11a maybe... I'm not an 11 climber and lead this with relative ease. I've done chainmail (one fall) and that was hard! I just threw my left foot on the pillar at the "dyno" stance, found a 2 finger pocket to the right of the bolt and made it quite statically. From there the crimp traverse is tough but it eases off to 10a with solid ledgy holds.

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