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Bad Lizards 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Smith, Richard Jensen April 1982
Page Views: 1,033
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Feb 26, 2005

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Smearing up Bad Lizards with a full dam in the bac...



Cross Barker Dam to Rat Rock; drop off the left side (west)and walk around the formation for about a hundred feet and up a slab. Look for bolts following a vertical, unobtrusive dike to the left of a upward, left sweeping crack system (Rat Ledge). Climb the dike to an overhang with a bolt. Surmount the overhang and proceed up and right by three more bolts to the top. No rap bolts. Downclimb to your left (north).


Seven bolts

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By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 28, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Decent climbing in a novel location, but this is certainly no Josh classic. Two stars out of five (mainly for the ambiance of the area).
By Woody Stark
Feb 28, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'm going to disagree. We did this route yesterday and thought it was great. There were three distinct cruxes plus enjoyable climbing in between. After I led it, we switched leads and did it again. I was surprised it wasn't in the database. So I put it in yesterday.
By Bo Johnston
Mar 14, 2005

I really enjoyed this route and thought the beginning crux and the higher traversing crux and the end to be very cool! It is great that it has been rebolted. I like that one of the old bolts was left midway up to help you see the difference.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 16, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'm in agreement with Woody. This is a very nice route. Lots of fun, in a great location. Vogel made some disparaging comments in his guides about Bad Lizards, but Jenson and Smith established a fine route here.

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