|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Noel Child, mid '80s|
|Submitted By:||Robert Stetler on Jan 9, 2005|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Bad Ju-Ju Roof||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Dec 8, 2006
|Another Noel Child monster. Mid 80s.|
By Olaf Mitchell
From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
Mar 26, 2007
"Bad Ju-Ju" is a severely overhanging crack that Noel Childs and Mike Bearzi(sp found. After a day of climbing, Noel and I were hiking down from Cynical Pinnacle, and he asked me if I minded making a detour, because he wanted to show me something he had found. I couldn't believe my eyes when I first saw it! I wanted to jump on it that very moment, but Noel said that he and Bearzi found it together, and they were planning to do it together soon. I told him Cool, but I intended to do the second ascent of it. I couldn't get it off my mind! I even had a name for it! Bad Ju-Ju! Noel had it filed away into his "to do someday" stash and had been just sitting on it waiting on Bearzi. I called Bearzi on the phone, and he told me that he wasn't in good free climbing shape at that moment, and he really didn't have any intention of jumping on the climb any time soon. I expressed how important the route was to me and Mike understood. He gave me his blessing to go for it. I guess that I was being a real jerk when I told Noel that he had two weeks to find a partner and climb it, or else I was going to. To make this long story shorter, Noel and I teamed up and did "Bad Ju-Ju" two weeks later.
The Bad Ju Ju Roof/Crack is one of the single best pitches that I have ever done. I will accept that Noel should get the credit for the first assent of this beautiful route. He did find the climb and he placed the bolt on the face section the day before we did it. The truth is, I was the one that led it. I did take a fall near the lip. I wanted the first ascent real bad, so I didn't lower to the ground after my fall (like I should have)! If I had lowered, Noel would have had a chance to make a continuous lead through my high point. Noel did seconded the pitch in good style! He had trouble getting one of the pieces out near the lip and climbed past it leaving it in. As Ken mentioned in his comment, it was tricky down-aiding to retrieve it.
I agree with the 5.12 rating and the**** as well!
Good on you, Noel, my old friend!
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Nov 14, 2008
Olaf and Noel really amazed their friends with this roof.
Too steep to clean via lowering and hideous to second, the best cleaning strategy is down-aiding to the bolt. Once committed to the idea of down-aiding, it's fun to just do the hand crack roof out to the crux. A back-up to the initial bolt would make sense!
By Amy Kupilik
From: Foley, Alabama
Jul 21, 2014
|Just want to shout to Noel Childs, long lost friend, how are you? I've been stuck in Alabama for a while but not much longer. Hook up on my Facebook page to tell me how you've been. Would enjoy hearing from you. Hope you're doing well. I miss the mountain life baaaad!|