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Bad Italian Mustache T 

Bad Italian Mustache 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A0 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 19 pitches, 2200', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A0 R [details]
FA: Chad Umbel and Dave Sorric
New Route: Yes
Season: July-August
Page Views: 1,988
Submitted By: chad umbel on Sep 3, 2008

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5.10+ offwidth pitch 6. Photo By: Dave Sorric

Description 

This route is a link up of Bad Hair Day into Italian Pillar into what I think is the top of what would be the West Face Route. It Starts on Bad Hair then when Bad Hair goes way right you do the nice middle pitches through the roofs straight up the Italian Pillar. Then We got sorta lost at the last section of roofs way up. We tried to keep on Bad Italian Hair but we got lured quite a ways left due to big chopper blocks in the roofs.

One pendulum kept this from being an all free ascent but I think it would go totally free with a bolt or a bigger pair of balls. Anyway it's a fun route on pretty good rock for the most part until you get near the top pitches which are sorta licheny and has some loose flake madness.

Location 

Start on Bad Hair Day. When you get to where this route goes right stay on the Italian Pillar going straight at the beautiful roof with perfect splitter hand cracks on the right side of corner. Climb through first roof then eventually step out right to a bolted belay. We linked both the roofs you will see and belayed off natural pro in the wide crack but was a mistake and didn't see the stance below us till after.

Follow a crack/flake system to a belay below a huge roof system that hosts too many cracks to choose from. We took the far left corner through the roofs where we found an ancient fixed stopper with white 7 mil rope through it. Climb through this roof (crux) and sketch your way up on the tiny flake system to where it blanks out. Stand by for terrifying or penjy out left to a nice corner with a hand crack in it.

From here it goes straight up climbing nice corners and some not so nice ptiches which consist of a lot of expando action. At least one of the anchors we had was built in all expando. Do your best. Navigate your way to the top of the Minaret via good cracks for the most part except for some lichen.

To get down either continue to the top of the South Howser and rap the Beckey-Chouinard rappels or rap Doubting the Millenium. We chose the latter due to a huge cornice that menaced the rappels of the BC route. Rapping Doubting the Millenium is no joke. The guide book makes it sound casual but it isn't. We had to dump a full set of stoppers and a grip of slings up there. I guess for you it's all set up now though. Plus stuck ropes on A3 pitches was common and stressful without a hammer and pin rack. Great position on the Minaret none the less!

Protection 

Double set of camalots from .5 through 4. Full set of Aliens and a few offset Aliens are nice. Nice set of Stoppers. Lots of Slings. Two 60's.


Photos of Bad Italian Mustache Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave after the long rap session down Doubtibg the ...
Dave after the long rap session down Doubtibg the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 5 has splitter cracks to a wild roof. Photo ...
Pitch 5 has splitter cracks to a wild roof. Photo ...

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