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Bad Finger 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Todd Rentchler and Terri Schulz 1975
Page Views: 4,559
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 10, 2006

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The most obvious line here... chalked by a thousan...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Great climb with interesting moves, a few cruxes and bomber pro.
Jam thin hand to hands through a couple small roofs to a finger crack dihedral above.


Right of On The Road left of Gruff.


tcus and cams to 2"

Photos of Bad Finger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Juliana entering the 1st crux of Bad Finger
Juliana entering the 1st crux of Bad Finger

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By bryans
Jun 19, 2006

pretty straightforward for the grade. takes good passive pro, too.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This climb is fricken' sick! Awesome route. Topropers tend to find the 2nd bulge to be the crux, leaders tend to get stopped at the last bulge. Your mileage will vary. Bomber gear. Definitely bring some nuts as the previous person mentioned.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 30, 2009

Thought this was harder than wildfire...
By Tod Bloxham
Sep 8, 2009

Incredible climb! The finger locks at the top are inspiring. The 2nd roof is bit of a hand jam puzzle, but steller moves that work right into a pumpy finger lock finish.

Definitely a few no brainer nut placements as well as easy cam placements (and a few no hands rests if you want).
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Dec 9, 2010

This climb is the SH*T! Def my favorite climb in the gorge so far!
By Wally Fox
Aug 31, 2014

How do you make a classic better? There's now an extension to bad finger that climbs through a seam and a couple roofs. It's Bad Ass!
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 11, 2014

Possibly the very best pitch of 5.10 at Smith. Certainly top 5.
By Muscrat
Dec 13, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is one of my fav's in the gorge, just a fun line to play on. Once you dial it, try leading on just nuts/hexes!! Old school rocks!
By Brian Martin
From: Bend, OR
Jul 18, 2015

I don't think 5.10 gets better than this. I can't think of any 5.10 that even comes close at smith. Crux for me was at the top.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Jul 28, 2015

@Brian Martin 1 - you should go try the Tombstone if you're up for an adventure and want to try one of only a couple 5.10s at Smith that can rival Bad Finger.

Just make sure there's nobody below you at the base of the Monument before you rap into the Tombstone...

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