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Bad Finger Extended (BFE)  

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Wally Fox (8/30/14)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Wally Fox on Sep 8, 2014

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


After looking at the seam above Bad Finger for years I decided to give it a go because Forrest Kaye was going for it on other extensions in the Gorge. The seam will lead you to a corner. Once in the corner you can pull some big moves through the roof and mantle the "pool table".


The route is above Bad Finger, climb up and left until you are stemming on the bad finger and on the road columns. From hear you follow the seam and corner to the roof.


The extension will take two purple Metolius, 1 or 2 #2 ball nuts, and nuts. Anchor and chains at the top. Pulling the final roof and mantling is heads up as you are climbing above your nuts.

Comments on Bad Finger Extended (BFE) Add Comment
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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 8, 2014

In addition to the mantel being heads up, make sure to runner your gear! I didn't and all my little off-set wires fell out before I pulled the move...
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Aug 2, 2015

Great addition to the lower gorge. Thanks for putting it up.
By ForrestKaye
Jun 19, 2016

I feel most comfortable when I climb above my nuts.
By Wally Fox
Jun 30, 2016

Sweet Nathan! Glad you got on it! I've been wondering if I should put a bolt on it or leave it how it is? The bolt would ensure a bit more safety but keeping it a gear route has value too.

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