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Lower Virgin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fistful of Pesos S 
Bad Cop, No Donut S 
Cabeza de Chivo S 
Charity S 
Don Quixote S 
El Balota S 
Flying Scorpion S 
Mexican Vacation S 
Mexico in Flames S 
Mugre S 
Mugre Mugre S 
Resurrection S 
Sancho Panza S 
Selam S 
Shroud, The S 
Silverfish S 
Thonga de T S 
Tilting at Windmills S 
Trouble at the Border S 

Bad Cop, No Donut 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rick Ross, Dane Bass
Page Views: 571
Submitted By: kyber on Jan 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: Gimme some donuts!!!


several varitions makes this climb either 10+ or 11b. there is a left leaning crack on the right side that is (according to Dane) not supposed to be used for the 11b and this also goes for the very easy to reach ramp on the left side. all of these features are within an arms reach so its whatever you feel up for at the time. basically stay on the face for the 11b rating and exit right or left for a 10+ rating.


right of flying scorpion


10 - 12 bolts

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By David Kozak
Mar 18, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun route. Rating depends on how directly you climb it. Going left or right lowers the rating quite a bit from what's sated in the Bass guide.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 10, 2012

Fun Route! Climb it twice, do the direct version first, follow the bolts straight up, and then the slightly right version using the crack. Both are worth it and very fun! Little crimpy moves and techie feet on this one!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 1, 2016

After leading this route twice (over different years), I've been unable to do it "direct". I set off with VERY good intentions to go direct but yet still find the natural flow, slightly right. I may starts off directly over the bolts but to me, in the end, I flow to the right.