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Bad Brains 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Don Goodhue, 1989
Page Views: 798
Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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This is a one move wonder, but the rest of the climbing is pretty fun, too.

To locate this route, hike up the Sand Gulch Canyon to the Freefrom Wall. At the left end of the wall is a yawning chimney with red home made hangers. This is "Barney (5.9)".

Just to the right of this route is a bolted line that goes through a funky pod. This route is Bad Brains.

The crux comes on this one real early. With an open mind and some creativity, it goes somewhat easily (for the grade). After you have solved the crux, continue upwards on fun moves that are probably 5.9ish. Keep heading up and slightly right to the anchors on "Helter Skelter".


6 bolts to "Helter Skelter" anchors.

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By Kris S
From: Ocean Beach, SF
Nov 17, 2008

Hard, no matter which way you go about it. You will be pulling on small/sharp crimps or terrible pockets for the crux sequence. Height won't really help you out either. Enjoy the first two bolts, bust the crux, clip 3, hold it together thru the balancy moves to the anchors. Not soft for the grade IMHO.
By Matt.H Haron
Sep 27, 2012

Not 12a. Maybe 11c/d. Hard but not 12a IMO.
By Ian Stewart
Feb 18, 2013

There's one 12a move, which I would definitely say is 12a, and the rest is significantly easier. There may be another way of doing it, but for me, the crux involves an extremely sharp edge: once I felt it I knew I only had a couple attempts before bad things happened to my fingers. I got it, but the climb isn't that great and I don't think I'd want to deal with the sharp edges again just to get a send. Next time I'll just man-up and get on Freeform instead....

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