REI Community
search
Advanced
Bad Bolts in Las Vegas
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Feb 20, 2014
LAST UPDATED:1/5/2017

This thread serves as a clearinghouse for fixed hardware that is known to be in need of replacement in the Las Vegas area - including Red Rocks and the various local limestone areas. It's primary purpose is to steer local rebolting efforts to where they're most needed. The majority of this work is done by volunteers though the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition in conjunction with the American Safe Climbing Association

If you come across a suspicious bolt, please post to this thread the following information:

1) The route name and area.
2) The location of the bolt (include as much information as possible).
3) A description of the problem (the type or appearance of the bolt and what the problem is). If at all possible a photo of the suspect bolt/hardware would be appreciated.

Once the issue has been addressed we will respond saying what work was done and remove it from the list of known issues and a post outlining the replacement work that took place will appear on the routes page here on MP.

Thanks for your help in maintaining the awesome climbing we all enjoy here in Vegas!

(Additional information on bolt replace initiatives as well as best practices and identifying suspect/problem bolts can be found at the Access Funds anchor education page.)
------------------------------------------------------------------------

BLACK VELVET CANYON

Black Velvet Wall

  • Delicate Sound of Thunder : All pitch one bolts are suspect and should be replaced. The fourth bolt, specifically, has threads that stick out fully 2 inches from the wall with a spinning hanger.

  • Epinephrine: Second to last pitch on the ledge. The new bolt is gone, leaving the skinny bolt with the SMC hanger. Good gear anchor nearby though. Many upper pitches have one new bolt, one skinny w/ SMC hanger. Reported by mtnmandan

  • Overhanging Hangover: One anchor bolt on the first pitch is a spinner. Both bolts on the second pitch are spinners. Reported by Weston L. Both anchor bolts at the top of the second pitch are loose. Reported by Eric and Lucie

  • Sandstone Samurai: P2 has 2x 1/4" w/ Leepers pro bolts, and 1x 1/4" w/ Leeper + 1x 3/8" w/ SMC hanger at the anchor. P3 has 1x 1/4" w/ Leeper + 1x 3/8" w/ SMC hanger at the anchor, P4 has 1x 3/8" w/ SMC hanger (and one piton) at the anchor. P5 has 4x pro bolts and 2x anchor bolts in need of replacement. Reported by Jon Clark & Josh Janes

  • Texas Hold 'Em: the 10d pitch has one bolt that is not at all confidence inspiring. it is sandwiched between 2 solid bolts, but i definitely didn't want to test that ones integrity. Reported by Tyler Lomprey.

Burlap Buttress

  • Children of the Sun: Top of the second pitch and fourth pitch - both bolts on both pitches should be replaced. Reported by Andrew Yasso.

Whiskey Peak

  • Frogland: P5, next to the 5.9 finger crack , hanger is free spinning and bolt feels like it could pull out, but would perhaps hold a fall without outward force. Reported by Idaho Bob

  • Only the Good Die Young: One of the anchor bolts atop P2 is loose. Anchor atop P3, left hand bolt is significantly loose in the hole and protruding a touch. Reported by Weston L

  • Tales from the Gripped: One bolt on P2 has been replaced but the old one is still there and needs to be chopped. Two bolts higher on P2 and both anchor bolts need replacing. 7x pro bolts and the anchor on P3 need replacing. All of these bolts should be easy to pull and possibly reuse holes. Reported by Josh Janes.



CALICO BASIN

Alternative Crag

  • Paralyzed:Loose anchor bolts. Reported by Tony Grieb.


Cannibal Crag

  • Caustic Cock: Second bolt hanger is loose. Reported by Jer.

Conundrum Crag

  • Drilling Miss Daisy:First bolt is protruding from the rock a decent bit. Reported by Weston L

Existential Wall

  • Left Anchor: One hanger missing for two-bolt anchor. I see no reason for it to be missing. Since the individual routes are not yet added to MP, I don't have names for you. It's very obvious once you're on top. Reported by Sean Stoops.

Ranch Hands Crag

  • Payless Cashaway:top anchor to payless cashaway on ranch hands crag at calico basin glue in eye bolts lose not able to pull out yet but wigles in every direction 2 side by side both loose. Reported by Randall Hufstetler.

Sunny and Steep

  • Sunny and Steep: 6th bolt on is missing (the 5-piece on the route). Reported by John Wilder.



FIRST PULLOUT

Civilization Crag

  • Babylon: Right anchor is spinning and the bolt is loose. Reported by Matt.C.

  • Manifest Destiny:Both anchor hangers are spinning . Reported by M Wagner.

  • This is Sparta: One of the anchor hangers is spinning. Reported by M Wagner. the third bolt seems to wiggle. Reported by Arthur Long

Iron Man Wall

  • Silver Surfer: has a loose bolt, 3rd or 4th from the bottom. Hanger is loose and the bolt shaft wiggles up and down in the hole. I believe it was the bolt right before the last steep section. Reported by nmiller.

Panty Wall

  • The Last Panty: The Anchor here has seen better days. Two what looks like older style metolius hangers each with a pair of quicklinks. The left hanger is spinning and has ground a smooth quarter circle into the rock. The right hangers second quicklink is about 1/2 way worn through. Reported by Nicholas Gillman

  • Viagra Falls: May be missing the final bolt. Reported by John Wilder.



ICEBOX CANYON

Sunnyside Crags

  • Mercedes: has homemade hangers and thin chain for anchor. Reported by Matt Kuehl.

Refrigerator Wall

  • Earth Juice:The first bolt is good but all other bolts on this route including the P1 anchors are in dire need of replacing. They are quarter inchers or star drives with leeper or old smc hangers. Reported by Jeff G.

  • Kisses Don't Lie:The first four bolts are modern and bomber, the remaining 8 are very old 3/8 inch with homemade angle iron hangers. Reported by Jeff G. COMMENT: These bolts and hangers are both beefy and have minimal surface rust. In other words, I believe them to be perfectly safe for a long time - Josh Janes.



JUNIPER CANYON

Cloud Tower

  • Cloud Tower: Anchor bolts atop the final handcrack pitch are a mess. Should be replaced with glue-ins due to soft rock. Also, pro bolts on the crux pitch should be pulled/patched. Reported by earl mcalister and Josh Janes.

  • Hook ,Line and Whimper: It has home made hangers,and the bolts are 3/8" button heads. A few on the runout pitch, and then the bolted belays that don't have much natural pro for backups. Reported by Cor

Ginger Buttress

  • Unimpeachable Groping: Anchor bolt on ledge is missing. Reported by John Wilder. First pitch: the first two or three bolts are decent spinners reported by Tony Lunchetta. The last bolt on P1 is missing its hanger entirely as of 3/5/16. Reported by Jon H.



LONE MOUNTAIN AREA

The Gun Club

  • Mini-Gun: the 5th bolt, the one protecting the roof is loose, just needs tightening but I couldn't get my nut tool in position.reported by jacob koffler



MOUNT WILSON

Aeolian Wall

  • Inti Watana: Crux bolt on P2 is pulling out of its hole. Reported by Josh J. Crux bolt on P2 seems to be getting even worse but can easily get backed up.The entire route is soon to be due for an update as almost all of the bolts are now aging, some of them better than others. Reported by Zack.



OAK CREEK CANYON

Eagle Wall

  • Eagle Dance: One loose bolt above the roof on the bolt ladder. Reported by fossana

  • Levitation 29: One of the anchor bolts on pitch 1 pulled out. Probably 3/8" 5 piece. Reported by AMT , Anchor bolt atop P4 is a spinner. Reported by Gregger Man.

Solar Slab - Lower Tier

  • Johnny Vegas: Righthand anchor bolt on third pitch anchor is loose. Lower anchors are outdated hardware (shuts). Reported by John Wilder.

  • Solar Slab Gully: Upper two anchors need replacing. Possibly move upper anchor to left side of gully. Reported by John Wilder , Last time I descended it I noticed the lone thread anchor (which is required to facilitate rappelling the gully with a single rope) had been removed. Reported by Josh Janes.



PINE CREEK CANYON

Brass Wall

  • Birdland: pull/patch old bolt atop P1. Reported by Keithb00ne.
Challenger Wall

Magic Mountain

  • Edge of the Sun: All bolts are original (1980s hardware store variety I think) and should be replaced; in particular the rap anchors. Many of the bolt studs are protruding 2+ inches from the wall. Reported by Jon Clark

  • Five and Dime: Six pro bolts need replacement. Most should be moved slightly closer to the arete (left). Reported by Josh Janes.

Mescalito

  • Excellent Adventure: P3 has homemade hangers (5x bolts). Reported by Josh Janes.

  • Pauligk's Pillar: First pitch anchor has bad bolts. Reported by Brian in SLC.

  • Risky Business: I thought the lone protection bolt at the start of P3 seemed very bad. Anchors are bomber though. Other protection bolts seemed ok but not getting any younger. Reported by Kevin Kent.

  • Slot Machine: The anchor has old Leeper hangers but decent 3/8" studs. Reported by Josh Janes.

  • Y2K: Older bolts with washers and chain links. Reported by Matt Carpenter.



SANDSTONE QUARRY

Front Corridor

  • Mans Best Friend: 1st pitch 2nd bolt is really getting bad and another one on pitch 2 but I don't remember which one specifically. Reported by Bryan Manning.

Running Man wall

  • Split Ends: The anchor is made of nylon webbing and a quicklink and has been frayed and sun-bleached far past it's life. Reported by Alex S

Sonic Youth Cliff

  • Hooligans: Bolts and anchors (old homemade hangers). Reported by Josh Janes.

The Trophy Wall

  • Keep Your Powder Dry: The first bolt sheered after a fall from much higher up on 3/5/16. Left the biner, chain, and hanger near the base of the route. Reported by Zachary Laschober

The Walrus

  • Choking Smokers: missing the first bolt. Reported by Jer



SECOND PULLOUT

Black Corridor

  • Friend: First four bolts are spinning. Reported by Leslie McG

The Gallery

  • The Runaway: Left anchor bolt is loose. Reported by JuanCarlos

  • Range of Motion: First bolt hanger is still very loose. Reported by Projicarus

The Great Red Book Area

  • Great Red Book: Right bolt at the top of the first pitch anchor is loose and has an old SMC hanger. Wasn't confidence inspiring. However, the left bolt is backed up with chain to another above it. The left bolts appeared solid. Reported by Bob Johnson.



WINDY PEAK

South Face

  • Jubilant Song: The lone pro bolt is an old 1/4 incher. Reported by Josh Janes.



WILLOW SPRINGS

Sumo Greatness Slab

  • Sumo Greatness: The bolt is pulled out 1/8"-3/16".needs to be addressed. Reported by Erik Clinton.
SNevadaClimbersCoalition
Joined Feb 14, 2013
0 points
General Admin
Mar 23, 2014
Please use this format if possible:

Climb (Area): Description of the issue. Reported by (your username).

Thanks!
Josh Janes
Joined Jun 8, 2001
7,848 points
May 16, 2016
Frogland , Whiskey Peak top of pitch 2 anchor bolts are gone; only option is to build a gear anchor. Also as noted earlier, only bolt on pitch 5 slab crux is loose and spinning. jersey girl
Joined Jun 12, 2012
405 points
May 18, 2016
Leslie McG wrote:
Frogland , Whiskey Peak top of pitch 2 anchor bolts are gone; only option is to build a gear anchor. Also as noted earlier, only bolt on pitch 5 slab crux is loose and spinning.


OH NOES! So you're saying that on a trad route, the only option where there once were bolts, is to build a GEAR anchor?? It's been a while and my memory is a bit hazy but doesn't this route have a walk off?

Also of note, is the bolt itself loose and spinning or is the HANGER spinning?

Greatly Confused,

Andre
Andre H.
From Boulder
Joined Nov 8, 2012
0 points
General Admin
May 18, 2016
Andre, the "loose bolt" is indeed loose in the hole. It could probably be pulled, the hole drilled to half-inch, and then replaced with a larger bolt. However that bolt doesn't do anything to protect the tricky move there anyway.

And Leslie, Frogland doesn't have ANY bolted anchors. At least it hasn't for 15+ years. I know it's crazy - this being Red Rocks and all - but one might have to build one's own anchors and walk off this naturally protected rock climb or otherwise leave gear to bail.
Josh Janes
Joined Jun 8, 2001
7,848 points
Aug 9, 2016
If the bolt itself is intact and it is just a spinning hanger, it's not a "Bad bolt" - this thread is intended for those who are replacing bolts to find out about that which requires outright replacement. Not just something that needs a wrench taken to it for a couple of turns. Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Joined Mar 14, 2010
728 points
Aug 19, 2016
Route: Neon Sunset
Wall: Magic Bus

Left side anchor bolt and chain missing at the top. Right side chain and bolt are still good.
MrOwen
Joined Aug 19, 2016
0 points
Oct 7, 2016
Choking Smokers at the Walrus in Sandstone Quarry is missing the first bolt Jer
Joined Aug 31, 2015
35 points
Oct 16, 2016
Just took another lap on Inti about a week ago.

Crux bolt on P2 seems to be getting even worse but can easily get backed up.
The entire route is soon to be due for an update as almost all of the bolts are now aging, some of them better than others.

Also, haven't been up there in a while but I just heard that the star drive on the texas tower connection traverse pitch is getting to be even sportier.

Thanks for the hard work
Zack Novak
From All over the place
Joined Jan 15, 2008
5 points
Nov 20, 2016
P3 bolt hanger on risky business is of the same variety as the homemade hangers on Excellent Adventure. I thought these all looked pretty good, they seem to be painted brown or only lightly rusted and made of very thick metal angle. You can back the Risky Business bolt up a few feet before it with a nut ( I placed a DMM offset alloy). David Bruneau
From St. John
Joined Feb 10, 2012
1,210 points
Nov 20, 2016
SNevadaClimbersCoalition wrote:
LAST UPDATED:5/10/2016 .... Pauligk's Pillar: First pitch anchor has bad bolts. Reported by Brian in SLC [but reported some time on or before 2/20/2014].


I am confused about the above.

  • Handren's Red Rocks A Climbers Guide (2007) mentions no bolts;

Looking through the comments to the route there are these:

  • 1/2009: "a tangle of slings at a very small ledge 100 feet off the ground"
  • 6/2009: "ratty nest of slings at 100 feet on the 1st pitch", and
  • 3/2014: "the anchor at 100 feet is no longer"

But then there is this:

  • 7/2016: "Someone added a bolted belay station at the top of pitch one and a rap station down low on the route"

Are the recently installed bolts the "bad bolts" reported by Brian in SLC?
Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Joined Apr 16, 2006
1,394 points
Nov 21, 2016
Bill Lawry wrote:
I am confused about the above. * Handren's Red Rocks A Climbers Guide (2007) mentions no bolts; Looking through the comments to the route there are these: * 1/2009: "a tangle of slings at a very small ledge 100 feet off the ground" * 6/2009: "ratty nest of slings at 100 feet on the 1st pitch", and * 3/2014: "the anchor at 100 feet is no longer" But then there is this: * 7/2016: "Someone added a bolted belay station at the top of pitch one and a rap station down low on the route" Are the recently installed bolts the "bad bolts" reported by Brian in SLC?


I dimly recall referring to the mass of manky slings as "bad bolts". I don't recall a bolted anchor.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
12,530 points
Nov 22, 2016
Thanks for the reply, Brian. Sounds like this one can be removed from the list. Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Joined Apr 16, 2006
1,394 points
Nov 27, 2016
Inti Watana entire lower half should be rebolted. Most of bolts used were non SS, hence most of them are rusted. I don't know why eople use non-SS hardware? Bolts looked like they were replaced not too long ago, but in all honesty non of them are confidence inspiring at all, particularly on lower half, mostly due to water seeping down that part of the wall.
Another question is: would bolting a separate rap route for Crimson Chrysalis help with epics on that route? Even if you are first on that route, you are pretty much guaranteed to rap over other parties climbing from below.
polishbob
Joined Jul 20, 2014
0 points
Nov 29, 2016
Bon Ez (black corridor): both rap rings are nearly 50% worn through. The left anchor bolt hanger and bolt spin. Reported by mbv mbv Br
Joined Nov 4, 2016
0 points
Nov 29, 2016
Burros dont gamble (black corridor): the first chain link is approximately 75% worn through (1st link attached to hanger).this applies to both left and right anchors. I moved the quicklinks that were on the ends of the two chains directly to the hanger. The chains should be removed and or replaced and should no longer be used. Both bolts and hangers still appear to be in good condition. Reported by mbv. mbv Br
Joined Nov 4, 2016
0 points
Nov 30, 2016
We appreciate all the various reports. This thread is really a great 'front lines' tool to let us know whats going on with bolts in and around Red Rock.

We will make it a point to clear up what exactly is going on at Pauligk's Pillar and update the list accordingly.

polishbob wrote:
Inti Watana entire lower half should be rebolted. Most of bolts used were non SS, hence most of them are rusted. I don't know why eople use non-SS hardware? Bolts looked like they were replaced not too long ago, but in all honesty non of them are confidence inspiring at all, particularly on lower half, mostly due to water seeping down that part of the wall.


Zack wrote:
Just took another lap on Inti about a week ago. Crux bolt on P2 seems to be getting even worse but can easily get backed up. The entire route is soon to be due for an update as almost all of the bolts are now aging, some of them better than others. Also, haven't been up there in a while but I just heard that the star drive on the texas tower connection traverse pitch is getting to be even sportier. Thanks for the hard work


Even outside the existence of this thread/sticky there have been quite a few reports of the quality of of the bolts on Inti Watana. It is something on the radar , which at the same time is also going to be quite the undertaking.

polishbob wrote:
Another question is: would bolting a separate rap route for Crimson Chrysalis help with epics on that route? Even if you are first on that route, you are pretty much guaranteed to rap over other parties climbing from below.


Undoubtedly people could argue the merits of a separate rap route for Crimson Chrysalis on either side. However additional bolts in the wilderness area are currently a no go.

Thanks again!
SNevadaClimbersCoalition
Joined Feb 14, 2013
0 points
Dec 1, 2016
Sweet Pain Wall:
The Gambler
2nd bolt has pulled out of the wall approximately 2cm so the bolt hanger spins freely. This bolt was pounded in, not one that can be tightened with a wrench.

Gallery:
Range of Motion
First bolt hanger is still very loose
Projicarus
Joined Dec 1, 2016
0 points
Dec 1, 2016
Sunny and Steep, 6th bolt on Sunny and Steep is missing (the 5-piece on the route).

Edit: The missing bolt has been replaced with a Fixe Glue-in....
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
1,495 points
Dec 14, 2016
Projicarus wrote:
Sweet Pain Wall: The Gambler 2nd bolt has pulled out of the wall approximately 2cm so the bolt hanger spins freely. This bolt was pounded in, not one that can be tightened with a wrench. Gallery: Range of Motion First bolt hanger is still very loose


John Wilder wrote:
Sunny and Steep, 6th bolt on Sunny and Steep is missing (the 5-piece on the route).


Noted on both , thank you for the reports!
SNevadaClimbersCoalition
Joined Feb 14, 2013
0 points
Dec 14, 2016
We are happy to report the resolution to the following issues :


BLACK CORRIDOR

  • Bon Ez: Both rap rings are nearly 50% worn through. The left anchor bolt hanger and bolt spin. Reported by mbv

The loose hanger was tightened and the bad chain links/rap rings were removed in addition to adding new quicklinks.

  • Burros Don't Gamble: the first chain link is approximately 75% worn through (1st link attached to hanger).this applies to both left and right anchors.

Bad chain links were removed in addition to adding new quicklinks.

  • Rebel Without a Pause: 2nd bolt is a spinner, 3rd bolt was out of the wall a quarter inch. Reported by Schwisow

Replaced with Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolts.

  • Need To Rest: The first and 5th bolt should be looked at. Reported by anonymous Black Corridor climber

Replaced with Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolts.

MAGIC BUS

  • Neon Sunset: Left side anchor bolt and chain missing at the top. Right side chain and bolt are still good. Reported by MrOwen.

Replaced with Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolts and then equipped with new quicklinks and rap rings.

THE PIER

  • Under the Boardwalk: Both anchor bolts are loose. Reported by Tony Grieb.

Replaced with Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolts and then equipped with new quicklinks and rap rings.
SNevadaClimbersCoalition
Joined Feb 14, 2013
0 points
Administrator
Jan 1, 2017
At Magic Bus, the route that starts to the left of the upside-down V (Technicolor Sunrise?): on the left mussy hook, the gate is broken and has a very sharp tip.

Many thanks for all you do, folks.
JSH
Joined Apr 3, 2007
873 points
Jan 5, 2017
JSH wrote:
At Magic Bus, the route that starts to the left of the upside-down V (Technicolor Sunrise?): on the left mussy hook, the gate is broken and has a very sharp tip. Many thanks for all you do, folks.


Thank you, we will make a note of it.
SNevadaClimbersCoalition
Joined Feb 14, 2013
0 points
Jan 5, 2017
We are happy to report the resolutions to the following issues


STRATOCASTER AREA

  • The Deluxe: Missing an anchor bolt. Reported by John Wilder.

Both anchor bolts were replaced with Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolts and then equipped with new quicklinks and rap rings.

  • Marshal Amp: First bolt is looking pretty bad. Reported by Anonymous stratocaster climber.

Replaced with a Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolt.

SWEET PAIN WALL

  • The Gambler: 2nd bolt has pulled out of the wall approximately 2cm so the bolt hanger spins freely. This bolt was pounded in, not one that can be tightened with a wrench. Reported by Projicarus

Replaced with a Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolt.

FRONT CORRIDOR

  • Pockets of Dirt: Second-to-last bolt is loose. Reported by jessy.

Replaced with a Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolt.
SNevadaClimbersCoalition
Joined Feb 14, 2013
0 points
Feb 24, 2017
The fixed draw on the third bolt on The Gift (if you include the shared bolt with Yaak crack) is aluminum on the bottom and sharp enough to cut a rope. It should be updated to steel to match the rest of the route. 2nd bolt on Save the Heart to Eat Later at Cannibal is a spinner, sorry didn't have my wrench to tighten. Ma and Pa Kettle still has no anchors besides the ones on top, I guess they got chopped awhile back. I don't see any reason it shouldn't have it's own set but to each their own.

Cheers!
Erik Kloeker
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Jan 28, 2014
0 points
Mar 19, 2017
Rappelled Fiddler on the Roof today and the bolts have reached a point where I wouldn't feel comfortable clipping them. At least three belays have one good bolt each, and the traverse pitch looks like someone put in new hardware, but it might be time to rally and refit this classic with new hardware.

I'm happy to donate asca hardware, drill, and other kit to the cause. Probably don't have time to hand drill, but would be willing to help fix lines.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
1,495 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.  

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About