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Bad at Climbing Decent at Bailing
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Nov 7, 2015
Hi

Today a partner and I went down to Poko to do a little rock climbing. This was a bad idea. We got off route on Catharsis because we are silly and cannot read topo's. We had climbed up the rap route because we are easily suckered in by shiny anchor-like things. We decided to bail because we are skittish and easily frightened. We only had one rope because we are weak and cannot carry many things. We rapped from the anchor above P1, but we did not reach the ground. We built an anchor out of gear, at probably the P1 belay. We rapped to the ground. We slid shamefully through oak leaves back to the car and left.

Our gear anchor is still somewhere up there. If you find it, we'd like it back. You don't have to give it back. If I found it, I probably would not give it back. But if do you find it and give it back we will give you $$$ or beer beer beer. If you find it, and keep it, use it well!
Josiah Ferguson
Joined Aug 29, 2011
17 points
Nov 7, 2015
That was a humble request.

Why can't you go back and get it? With two ropes. Or whatever it takes (if it's still there)
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
284 points
Nov 7, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: bouldering
:) Nice trip report! we have all been there ;) Nick Goldsmith
From Pomfret VT
Joined Aug 23, 2009
352 points
Nov 7, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon (raddest client ever) and I on South Elber...
I loved reading this. Your self deprecation resonates well; in fact, it sounds like a pretty standard weekend at the cliff! Chet Butterworth
From Chattanooga
Joined Jan 10, 2013
341 points
Nov 8, 2015
"shamefully", why do you care what people think!

You should be proud that you made at an attempt on a route at Poko, realized the situation and successfully walked away with your partner. Avoiding epics is a learned experience that comes with good judgement skills, that many people have yet mastered.

As for left gear, you have to agree that your health and life is much more valuable than a handful pieces of nylon and aluminum. It's part of the price for future commitment and success sometimes. These things can be easily replaced as compared to an injured partner caused by poor situational assement.

Now the only thing you have to do is: study, train, dial-in the route and get out there and complete the thing.

Good luck, there are many great routes at Poko.
Blissab
Joined Dec 13, 2009
21 points
Nov 8, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
Two guys in your same situation called 911 when their rope didn't reach the ground about 5 weeks ago. A couple days after that a gear anchor was found ten feet above the 1st belay. Bailing off that route happens. Forget about it. Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Joined Jul 21, 2012
449 points
Nov 8, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: bouldering
I doubt there is much real shame. just a good write up with good humor. the good thing to take away from this is staying calm, being methodical and comeing up with a safe plan to get down in one piece. Nick Goldsmith
From Pomfret VT
Joined Aug 23, 2009
352 points
Nov 8, 2015
Best post I've read in quite a while. wendy weiss
Joined Mar 17, 2006
21 points
Nov 8, 2015
you guys probably should stick to the gym Benji Astrachan
Joined Jun 13, 2015
0 points
Nov 8, 2015
Benji Astrachan wrote:
you guys probably should stick to the gym


Way to change the tone of this thread. For the worse.
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
284 points
Nov 8, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo:
Benji Astrachan wrote:
you guys probably should stick to the gym


Couldn't resist the cheap shot for your first post ever eh?
SinRopa
From parts unknown
Joined Sep 4, 2013
107 points
Nov 8, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: bouldering
I am gonna take that as a joke. Kinda like.
yer
gonna













Die!
Nick Goldsmith
From Pomfret VT
Joined Aug 23, 2009
352 points
Nov 8, 2015
While I thank you all for the concern, I feel obliged to let you know that the guy up top is my roommate and was laughing while I posted that comment. Obviously you couldn't have known that. Thanks for looking out for him Benji Astrachan
Joined Jun 13, 2015
0 points
Nov 8, 2015
Benji Astrachan wrote:
While I thank you all for the concern, I feel obliged to let you know that the guy up top is my roommate and was laughing while I posted that comment. Obviously you couldn't have known that. Thanks for looking out for him


Now that is funny!
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
284 points
Nov 8, 2015
FrankPS wrote:
That was a humble request. Why can't you go back and get it? With two ropes. Or whatever it takes (if it's still there)


Sadly, limited access to a car and limited days to climb. Will hopefully have a chance to go looking before it gets too cold.
Josiah Ferguson
Joined Aug 29, 2011
17 points
Nov 8, 2015
Bill Kirby wrote:
Two guys in your same situation called 911 when their rope didn't reach the ground about 5 weeks ago. A couple days after that a gear anchor was found ten feet above the 1st belay. Bailing off that route happens. Forget about it.


Hahah that's terrible. We were actually joking about if had to do that exact things. Makes me feel better that even if I get shut down, at least I can get out of it on my own. And glad I at least know how to ascend a rope...
Josiah Ferguson
Joined Aug 29, 2011
17 points
Nov 8, 2015
Benji Astrachan wrote:
you guys probably should stick to the gym


Nick Goldsmith wrote:
I am gonna take that as a joke. Kinda like. yer gonna Die!


I think you're right
Josiah Ferguson
Joined Aug 29, 2011
17 points
Nov 8, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: bouldering
As long as you stay calm and act in a methodical way it's hard to get killed. haveing a headlamp helps this method tremendously. Early season ice I almost always end up finishing in the dark. I carry at least 2 headlamps and the dark does not scare me. This helps me to be calm and methodical. Nick Goldsmith
From Pomfret VT
Joined Aug 23, 2009
352 points
Nov 9, 2015
Reminds me of a mini-epic I had my first time multi pitching. We had one rope on a two rope rappel, but we were close-ish some other anchors off to the side. We tied a cordelette and some slings to one end of our rope to extend it enough to get to the other anchors, then swung back over to the half-way anchors on our intended descent route from there. From those anchors, we were able to reach the ground with our one rope.

I'd call it a learning experience, but the next time I was out on some multi pitch with the same partner, we again found ourselves one rope short on the rappel and ended up slinging chicken heads for an impromptu anchor. Hopefully I'm smarter now.
Carlin Kersch
From Elephant Island, Antarctica
Joined Jun 8, 2014
97 points
Nov 10, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Rumney
Josiah Ferguson wrote:
Bad at Climbing Decent at Bailing


I find wisdom in those words, as many people don't realize "climbing" [outdoors at least] is a lot more than just being able to haul one's ass up the wall. Live/learn.
Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,639 points
Nov 10, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Eating and placing carabiners!
Gear is often found at Poke-O-Moonshine, don't feel too bad and forget about it! Might as well mention that a 70m rope is quite useful in the Daks Francis Kerdevez
From Montreal
Joined Sep 7, 2014
176 points
Nov 10, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Minsi, PA
Josiah Ferguson wrote:
Hi Today a partner and I went down to Poko to do a little rock climbing. This was a bad idea. We got off route on Catharsis because we are silly and cannot read topo's. We had climbed up the rap route because we are easily suckered in by shiny anchor-like things. We decided to bail because we are skittish and easily frightened. We only had one rope because we are weak and cannot carry many things. We rapped from the anchor above P1, but we did not reach the ground. We built an anchor out of gear, at probably the P1 belay. We rapped to the ground. We slid shamefully through oak leaves back to the car and left. Our gear anchor is still somewhere up there. If you find it, we'd like it back. You don't have to give it back. If I found it, I probably would not give it back. But if do you find it and give it back we will give you $$$ or beer beer beer. If you find it, and keep it, use it well!


Order of importance (stolen from Mark Twight)

1. Come back alive
2. Come back as friends
3. Reach summit/top out
Michael C
From New Jersey
Joined Jun 9, 2011
374 points
Nov 10, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
Great post. If I lived out there I swear I would climb that just to retrieve your stuff for you and earn some beer. Funny thread.

+1 for still being alive, not in the hospital and no SAR call. Well done.
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
376 points


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