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Bad anchors
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Mar 24, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
"Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so..."


Looks pretty SOLID to me. Not sure how "SKETCH" that makes it.
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,541 points
Mar 25, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Locker wrote:
Looks pretty SOLID to me. Not sure how "SKETCH" that makes it.


Just what I was thinking.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
2,061 points
Mar 25, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: On Blanca after traversing from LB
Locker wrote:
"Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so..." Looks pretty SOLID to me. Not sure how "SKETCH" that makes it.


Me too! When I think of sketchy anchors I think of stuff like this...
Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 9, 2010
1,130 points
Mar 25, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: One of my first trad climbs, Ooga Chocka at Crowde...
Matty H wrote:
Pear buttress nut/pin anchor. definitely one of my favorite climbs, but sketch anchor. but it stays put so...


That thing is bomber!
sanz
From Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 7, 2011
262 points
Mar 25, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Whitehorse
Classic
Rock Climbing Photo: Courtesy of the Bird
Courtesy of the Bird
Timothy
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Joined Feb 25, 2011
44 points
Mar 25, 2013
That RURP anchor is awesome! Jace Mullen
From Oceanside, Ca
Joined Jan 11, 2011
7 points
Apr 2, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: What?
What?
mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
137 points
Apr 3, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: My cool Elly....
what - what????
If we go on stretched rope we do the same..... and it looks like it's pretty easy terrain.....
Pitty
From Marbach
Joined Apr 27, 2011
68 points
Apr 4, 2013
It's just that they sort of look like paper clips with a caribiner attached. mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
137 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: beaz-pack
Rock Climbing Photo: Hmmmm
Hmmmm
ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 10, 2008
759 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
mr. mango wrote:
It's just that they sort of look like paper clips with a caribiner attached.


That's a Raumer stainless in-line anchor set and is about as bomber as an anchor can get.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
2,061 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Shelf Rd
Here's a nice one:
Rock Climbing Photo: sketch-tastic
sketch-tastic


Taken from Eli's site... he's got a couple of other good ones too
climbinglife.com/beta/tech-tip...
Kenan
Joined Apr 15, 2010
1,266 points
Apr 4, 2013
kennoyce wrote:
That's a Raumer stainless in-line anchor set and is about as bomber as an anchor can get.

Fine it just looks thin to me. I will stick with my chains.
mr. mango
Joined Jan 18, 2012
137 points
Apr 4, 2013
mr. mango wrote:
Fine it just looks thin to me. I will stick with my chains.

Those ARE chains, they just happen to be longer chain links than you're used to. Those anchors are rated to 27kN: raumerclimbing.com/eng/prodott...

I'm disappointed with how bomber most of the anchors are in this thread...
Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points
Apr 4, 2013
Kenan wrote:
Here's a nice one: Taken from Eli's site... he's got a couple of other good ones too climbinglife.com/beta/tech-tip...


OK, that's a bad anchor. As if rusty pitons don't scare me enough, that whole anchor is rigged such that the failure of any piece will result in the failure of the entire system. It would have taken zero extra effort and gear to make that anchor much, much, much safer.
Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Living the High Life.
I'll add some:
Rock Climbing Photo: Bomber!
Bomber!


Rap anchor on the Petit Grepon, 2008
Two ancient pins back up by two frayed knots in the crack. Ugh.


Rock Climbing Photo: Totally Bomber!
Totally Bomber!

Anchor in Leprechaun Canyon, Main Fork, 2013, a bag of sand buried in more sand with a small rock on top. Ugghhhhh.

Canyoneers are crazy. Old single bolt or drilled pin rap anchors in sandstone are de rigor in the canyons of the Colorado Plateau. Climbers like us are pansies in comparison.
Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Joined Aug 22, 2007
342 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Shelf Rd
Andy Novak wrote:
Anchor in Leprechaun Canyon, Main Fork, 2013, a bag of sand buried in more sand with a small rock on top. Ugghhhhh


Wow, takes the term 'sandbagged' to a whole new level, eh?
Kenan
Joined Apr 15, 2010
1,266 points
Apr 4, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: blah
I will vouch for the sand trap being a stupid thing that will hold body weight. by no means would i start praising its virtues but it works. also the Christmas present Deadman is pretty effective and terrifying anchor... but hey I am no canyoneer Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
132 points
Apr 5, 2013
MIYG wrote:


That is the reason I carry nuts with me :p
wankel7
From Indiana
Joined Oct 4, 2010
22 points
Apr 5, 2013
Andy Novak wrote:
Climbers like us are pansies in comparison.


Well they aren't planning on holding falls with their anchors...
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
127 points
Apr 5, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Me




Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 5, 2013
The nylon on nylon action in that one isn't optimal, but the thread looks solid enough. michaeltarne
Joined Jan 2, 2011
149 points
Apr 11, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Day at Summersville Lake
came across these today and made me think of this thread

thailandrocks.com/safety.htm
Dan Allard
From West Chester, PA
Joined Mar 28, 2011
614 points
Apr 23, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: This is why...
How about some international flair? Here are some pictures from an excursion in Korea.

Rock Climbing Photo: Only American Death Triangle Ive ever used- It was...
Only American Death Triangle Ive ever used- It was in Korea and the 3 person party clipped in prior to me (Im the green sling...)


Rock Climbing Photo: My all time favorite anchor, also in Korea.
My all time favorite anchor, also in Korea.


Rock Climbing Photo: This is actually rapping between the 2 anchors pic...
This is actually rapping between the 2 anchors pictured above on a standard 50m rope. Me: "How long is rappel?" Korean: "Twentymeter!!!"
Jesse Morehouse
From CO
Joined May 18, 2006
1,681 points
Apr 23, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Austin Baird wrote:
Climbers might look at these ethics and think they're stupid, but it's really no different than a sport climber thinking that trad climbing is unsafe\idiotic\etc. Once you're more comfortable with canyoneering, you don't even think twice about things like this.


Well, as a climber who's dabbled in canyoneering, I still think some of the anchoring is silly. And, it is slightly different than comparing sport v trad climbing. One of the differences is, at the base of a climbing route, you look up, and, can decide if its for you or not on that day. Once you rap into a canyon, you're pretty committed.

I'm fairly comfortable canyoneering, and, I think twice about things like this a fair bit. Still a fairly warm topic of debate.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
13,072 points


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