REI Community
The Dungeon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5000 Candles in the Wind T 
Backdoor Man S 
Branching Out S 
Executioner, The T 
If and Only If S 
Implements of Destruction S 
New Beginnings  T 
Number of the Beast, The S 
Rat Dance T 
Ride Around the Block T 
Soaked in Sin T 
Tanuki T 
Two in the Pink T 
Uncertainty Principle , The T 
Unshackled S 
Zed's Dead T 

Backdoor Man 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave and Lisa Montgomery, 7/16
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Monty on Aug 24, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dave A. getting into the upper headwall. Notice t...

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

While the route doesn't look pretty, the climbing is super fun! The route can be easily identified by the 3 fixed permadraws that protect the initial traverse.

Stick clip the first permadraw and start on two underclings. Boulder past a quick sequence then traverse right past 2 more permadraws. To reduce rope drag, clip the next bolt (#4) with a shoulder length sling. Continue hand traversing the jug rail to the right until you can stand up and reach back left around the corner to clip. Alternatively you could climb straight past bolt #5, but the line of least resistance is to the right of the bolt line. Continue up the steepening wall above to a crux at the last bolt.

Location 

This is the furthest left route in the main overhang of the Dungeon.

Protection 

8 bolts. Bring 1 shoulder length sling and 4 draws as the first 3 are fixed for cleaning purposes.


Photos of Backdoor Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Alie starting the traverse on  the Back Door ...
Dave Alie starting the traverse on the Back Door ...

Comments on Backdoor Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Jul 23, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Really fun jug hauling to a punchy, boulder problem crux. These moves aren't too bad, but add in the pump factor, and you'll have to fight. Great route!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About