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Back-up Binkie 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Leafgreens
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 27, 2010

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Back-up Binkie takes the line just left of the dou...


Back-up Binkie is a bouldery line on the right end of the Killer Cave, featuring fun moves and excellent rock. For a vertical boulder problem, the rock is not terribly sharp, and with afternoon shade on the crux start, this can be a good option on a warm day.

Begin with a few easy moves to reach the first bolt. The crux is the next section of long moves between large holds that all face the wrong way. Once the third bolt is reached, the grade drops to ~5.9 for 30 feet or so to the looming bulge. A second, easier crux of pumpy moves ascend the short bulge to the anchor.


At the right end of the Killer Cave, beginning immediately right of "Second-Hand Nova".


Bolts to 2 BA. The second clip can be a bit precarious, so take care. Stick clip recommended.

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By Brian Dunnohew
Apr 1, 2013

This climb is no longer 12a. I noticed it has had jug rail chipped in at the crux. It is probably 11b in its current state.

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