REI Community
6. The Tower Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T 
Arrowhead TR 
Back to the Gym TR 
Back to the Wall T 
Crefeld Crank TR 
Dead Tree Dihedral TR 
Ex-traction Slab TR 
In & Out T,TR 
Johnson Route T,TR 
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 
Manticore Face TR 
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 
No Rest for the Wicked TR 
Ogre Arete T,TR 
Rachel's Crack T,TR 
Red Knob, The T,TR 
Rock Romancer TR 
Rossinator, The TR 
Tower Wall Direct T 
Unrest of the Witches TR 

Back to the Wall 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Jon Crefeld, Dave Barone, 9/16/10
Page Views: 1,364
Submitted By: Norm Rasmussen on Apr 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: routes overview Left side Tower Wall A Risky Bear ...

Route description 

Layback up crack behind the left side of the shark's tooth. Climb into alcove then follow right leaning up crack. Head up and left of white shield, left of roof, follow a clear right leaning finger crack through exposed fins and follow the hand-crack through the slab.

Photos of Back to the Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Back to the Wall - on left side of Tower Wall
BETA PHOTO: Back to the Wall - on left side of Tower Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Paweł through the initial trickiness. Not much ge...
Paweł through the initial trickiness. Not much ge...

Comments on Back to the Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By jon crefeld
Apr 8, 2014

GPS 41.14498797, -74.16538102.
A terrific line that takes a little more route-finding than the others. You get extra points if you don't use the tree behind the shark's tooth boulder. Then there is an unprotectable bulge that most people move around on lead. If you're 2nd it's a nice challenge. I think it's possible to bail left right before the airy finish - but if you don't and follow the right leaning crack until you swing right - it is greatness for the grade.
By kenr
Jun 6, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Lots of interesting moves with variety.
I think the most fun start is to first climb to the top of the Shark's tooth itself, then stepping (or falling) across to the main wall.

Top-rope did not require directionals, but fairly difficult to set up TR to achieve all of: avoid rope drag, monitor possible abrasion on anchor materials, and belay from the bottom. So I'd recommend plan on belaying from the top.
By kenr
Sep 19, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yes going directly up over the lower-middle bulge (perhaps more toward its left side) adds some interesting challenge for the Follower.

Higher is another (harder) variation for the Follower is (instead of diagonaling left to the upper arete), to go straight up toward the upper bulge, then traverse left close under the bulge to join the arete higher up.
By Mark Sudak
Feb 21, 2017

I also climb the sharks tooth first before getting on the wall. Two solid nut placements right off the deck followed by a nice horizontal for a .75 Camalot. From the alcove to the finger crack is pretty run out. I protected the start of the finger crack by burying a #0 Master Cam before making my next moves. From there the route is airy but all the holds are there. Hand crack above takes good gear.

I brought up my second on a gear anchor built in the small cave at the top of the slab. Be careful building this anchor as it requires some careful and creative nut and cam placements but once you find them they wont budge.

Overall a great route and probably my new favorite on the Tower Wall.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About