Back To The Slammer
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Ken Ariza et al, 1988 |
Page Views: | 1,129 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Lou Hibbard on Nov 2, 2011 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a unique route in that you must first climb another route and then rappel to the beginning of the route (which starts just above a roof). A very nice climb.
Location
Scope out the approach to Apathy Buttress. You can either lead Water Babies (5.11a one star, recommended) or 2 1/2 pitches of Apathy Buttress (5.9) to rappel to the route. If you choose Apathy Butress be prepared for perhaps excavating dirt out of the crack to get gear, swinging around on big, loose, stacked blocks, and other such adventure. Apathy Buttress is the way we took and then we rappelled to the top of Back To The Slammer. From there we rappeled to the start of the climb and set up the hanging belay. The belay is hanging but it is not all that steep.
Protection
Standard rack. As I recall, the climb itself takes mostly small to medium gear but depending on which route you lead to approach the climb you need to adjust the rack accordingly.
Bring extra small to medium gear for the hanging belay just above the roof. There is no fixed anchor at the base.
Bring extra small to medium gear for the hanging belay just above the roof. There is no fixed anchor at the base.
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