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k. The Slime Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
April Showers T 
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 
Blue Stink, The T 
Bragg-Hatch T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Comedy In Three Acts T 
Coprophagia T 
Falled on Account of Strain T 
Frustration Syndrome T 
Golden Showers T 
Hooky T 
Kligfield's Follies T 
Last Frontier T 
Moondance T 
Pressure Drop T 
Raindance T 
Simple Suff T 
Stand, The T 
Sticky Gate T 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 
Sundance T 
Tangled Up and Blue T 
Techno-Suff TR 
That Thing T 
Wasp T 
Wet Dream T 

Back to the Future (AKA JAP) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Todd Swain, Dick Williams, and Bob Elsinger, 1986
Page Views: 196
Submitted By: Ross Exler on Jul 22, 2013

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The route is a bit contrived, as at any point you can traverse a few feet left into the easier climbing of WASP, but it is still fun climbing and worth the effort. The initial R section can be protected by climbing up WASP, placing a piece, then coming back down and doing the low crux on JAP.

Start directly right of Wasp (or maybe WASP, if this is JAP). Climb a thin slab to a high step 5.10 move at about 12' off the ground. There is no protection until you've pulled this move and stand up to reach a horizontal. Continue up a couple body lengths to a puzzling crux at a horizontal below a blank face. You will see a few obvious holds down low to your left and right, and high feet, with some right slanting holds a few feet above you. Once past this, you will be under an undercling roof with a layback feature. Ascend this to the right, and onward through a small face and one more small overlap to the easy, low angle face that characterizes the second part of WASP.

From here, angle way up and left to the WASP anchor (2 ropes to rap, I believe), build an anchor and have your partner TR (and then leapfrog cams to the right along the horizontal to reach the tree ledge where they can walk off), or put a few directionals in the horizontal and belay from the ledge out right.


Just right of WASP


Bring a bunch of small cams. A few larger cams work well for the anchor, if you chose that method (green - blue camalots).

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By David Stowe
Jul 22, 2013

Ross congratulations on your first route description.

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