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North Cliffband
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back to Montana S,TR 
Cochiti Classic T 
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 
Empty and Meaningless S 
Feminist Men S 
Grunge Up the Munge T 
Gunning for the Buddha S 
Holy Wars S,TR 
La Espina S,TR 
Laurel's Climb S 
Monkey Lust S 
Montana Deviate T,S 
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 
Pickpocket S 
Praise the Lunge S 
Thief Crack T 
Thief in Time S 
To Catch A Thief S 
Touch Monkey S 
Unknown S 
Unknown - Boulder Left S 

Back to Montana 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, TR, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Sheftel, Couleur
Page Views: 35
Submitted By: Jason Hundhausen on Sep 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Into the good buckets past the first bolt on Back ...


Back to Montana climbs the face just to the left of Holy Wars. The crux moves are right off the deck, and the first bolt is about 15 feet up, so you may want to use a clip-stick. Begin in a sinker 2 finger pocket with the right hand and a shallow 2 finger pocket with the left, lock off and stretch out to reach another sinker with the right (good clipping pocket). Move past the first bolt (second crux) to a series of buckets leading to a ledge. It's run-out to the fourth bolt and there is an opportunity to place a TCU, but the climbing is quite a bit easier. Find the final crux moves as you head up to the newly installed 1/2" anchors.


10 feet left of Holy Wars


4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor

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By Rick Shull
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 3, 2009

When I did this in the early 90's it was rated 11a. I thought it was pretty damn pumpy for 11a. Now I know why.

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