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Back Scratcher 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 1 August 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: K Baumgartner on Feb 23, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Routes and two-bolt anchor locations on the east-f...


Originally led ground-up with a small tree overhanding a ledge about 2/3rds the way up. Two kicks of the tree on rappel sent it tumbling down into the chimney. First of three first known ascents on this wall. See also Window to the West and Free Ballin'. The dangling tree caught Baumgartner's rack on the way up, hence the name.

Start at the two-bolt anchor and step right on to a protruding block. Use the right flake to gain the small roof, travers left about 5 feet, and step on to the face (crux). The climbing backs off here after. Follow the left-leaning crack to a ledge and then continue straight up through the ever increasing crack. A #4 is helpful through this section.

From a small ledge about 2/3rds up, you have to choices to gain the anchor. Either follow the crack on the right to the top and traverse left to the new two-bolt anchor. Or step left to the larger crack that leads straight to the same anchor.


The easier but not necessarily the most pleasant way to gain the route is to ascend the Great Chimney. Climb the Great Chimney past the two trees on the dirt slope to a new two-bolt ring anchor.

A 70m rope from the anchor at the base of the route will return you to the bottom of the Great Chimney.


Standard Seneca rack. A #4 is helpful. Two-bolt anchors at the base and apex of the route.

Photos of Back Scratcher Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Craving for Pink and Hidden Gem from the n...
View of Craving for Pink and Hidden Gem from the n...
Rock Climbing Photo: FKA day.
FKA day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Originally led ground up with dangling tree in the...
Originally led ground up with dangling tree in the...

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