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(6) Shield Wall
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Back in the Saddle T 
Chainmail T,S 
High Plains Drifter S 
MD Route S 
Meat Grinder T 
Rauch Factor T,S 
Short Straw T,S 

Back in the Saddle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 5-12-07 Jon Stewart, Jim Opdycke
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Topher Dabrowski on Apr 14, 2015

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Description 

This route is best done in 2 pitches to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 1: Start up Rauch Factor clipping 3 bolts and then turn the corner, a small wire might inspire confidence here. Traverse up past the first set of anchors and on to the anchors for Chain Mail.

Pitch 2: Continue up from the anchors into a dirty crack system, trend right to a crack with a piton and then past a small roof. The piton looks ok but a few feet higher the thin crack opens up and takes a small nut well. Traverse over right and eventually end at the Rauch Factor anchors.

Note that as of April 2015 the upper pitch is very dirty and needs much cleaning. If climbing this route please take that into account.

Location 

Shared start with Rauch Factor and also shares top anchors with Rauch Factor.

Rappel

Protection 

Gear to 1" including a couple smaller cams in the Camalot 0.2 to 0.4 range.


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By Jonathan Stewart
Jul 13, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Added bolts 7-12-15 to the crux of back in the saddle. Probably still need to add one more to protect runout to anchor, currently traverse to RF route at top. Still dirty but manageable. Origionally did ground up aid, pulled rope, then free climbed back in 07, so i guess I'm still putting it together 8 years later. If clean would most likely not be a bomb. This route has great potential as a moderate way to reach RauchFactor anchor or as extension to chainmail. I also question the 5.9 rating as it felt 5.10- yesterday.

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