REI Community
Horse Cave
Select Route:
Back in the Saddle 
Holy Grail, The 
Kurt's Problem 
Trojan Horse 

Back in the Saddle 

Hueco: V5-6 Font: 6C+

Type:  Boulder, 18'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Ward Smith
Page Views: 1,254
Submitted By: JamieRe on Apr 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kurt Smith on an early send of Back in the Saddle


A fun short traverse into a roof on crimps. Fun heel hooking in the beginning with some crimp face moves to a fun topout.


Starts on the right and goes left into the hueco then up and right to a shelf.


Pad and spotter

Photos of Back in the Saddle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Evan moving into the hueco, photo by Chris Johnson
Evan moving into the hueco, photo by Chris Johnson
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the traverse
Working the traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Back in the Saddle
Back in the Saddle
Rock Climbing Photo: Al on Back in the Saddle
Al on Back in the Saddle
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam sending without the heel/toe cam.
Sam sending without the heel/toe cam.

Comments on Back in the Saddle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe M.
Sep 8, 2010
rating: V5+ 6C+

#3 in the beta photo.
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Apr 24, 2011
rating: V6 7A

Probably a stiff 6 or a 7- without the heel/toe cam in the hueco, by sticking to the small edges for feet and just going straight from left in the hueco and right hand on the sloping edge. Makes the route feel more pure and sustained.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Feb 25, 2012

I think Ward Smith did the FA of this and Chris Smith the route to the right.
By ward smith
Jul 14, 2012

Yes, I found this boulder in the late 90's, the last unknown boulder in LW?
By irujo
Nov 26, 2012
rating: V5 6C

Start way right on a jug with weird feet, traverse left to a hueco, find a way to set up on two crimps than finish straight up on a few more moves to the top out. Holds must of broken off and made this climb easier because it can't be harder than a v5
By Graham O.
Apr 15, 2017

There was a small, uninhabited bird's nest when I arrived at the problem. It was more mud than anything else, and it seemed like it hadn't been used in a while and wouldn't be used in the future. I took it off, and did my best to chalk up its muddy remains, but it is still a little damp on the left side of the hueco. Really fun problem nonetheless with a clever name!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About