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The Gargoyle
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7-10 Split T,S 
Back Crack T 
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Gothic Edifice S 
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Thunder Thighs S 

Back Crack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
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Page Views: 72
Submitted By: Lurker on Mar 25, 2014

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Back Crack

Description 

Hands and fingers in a flake/corner system. Move left about 2/3 of the way up (somewhat runout) to another corner system. Finish with some funky/fiddly gear. Think this route is called "Bat Crack" in the book.

Location 

On the south side of the Gargoyle formation. The less-mossy of two adjacent corner systems.

Protection 

Gear to 4", rap anchors.


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By Benjamin F
From: Crescent City, CA
Mar 28, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Ok yeah I was confused about this too. Climbed this with Tom, and I was positive it was called "Back Crack" as well. I think the guidebook must have it wrong, as well as the grade. It was originally graded 11a, which I think is a fair assessment. If not, then 5.10++
By Lurker
Administrator
From: Westwood
Apr 7, 2014

I felt that 5.10d was about right for this route. The upper section is more scary than hard, although I think the gear is actually pretty good. A bit easier than Gnar-Gnar (at least endurance-wise), which is probably more like 5.11a.
By Benjamin F
From: Crescent City, CA
Apr 11, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Good point.
Now that I think about it, Gnar Gnar was much harder, just due to how sustained it is.
I tend to not put letters on grades, and use the +/- to indicate how sustained it is. But the letters are how it's done here, so I've been trying to use them.
I think you've convinced me. I'd much rather call Gnar Gnar 5.11a, and Back Crack 5.10d, when you compare them.
I'll change my proposed rating right now.
By Evan Wisheropp
May 1, 2017

I discovered yesterday why Back Crack is a much better name than Bat Crack. 18' up the layback jug (and the 30 lb block it was attached to) broke, my piece blew the rock, and I decked flat on my back. Thank goodness we had a boulderer there and had borrowed a crash pad. Oh, "Back Crack," I get it now. After seeing the rope cut almost all the way through, I was a bit shaken to lead and ended up top roping it (already blew the onsight right?). It turns out now with the block gone, you can actually reach solid gear earlier than before. You're welcome?

Gear beta: Standard gear, nuts and gear to 4". Save a .5 for the upper dihedral and clip it plenty long. Certain small nuts kinda work above the .5 to back it up, but a nest with a #1 and #2 ball nut is bomber.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
May 1, 2017

Wow.
Glad you had fortunate circumstances for a relatively favorable outcome. :-)

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